Solid State Power Box

[Steve]

Entirely separate from the product you're mapping out here, I suggest you evaluate your tolerance for frustration. ..., and it doesn't matter how thorough you are in preparing the instructions or the website, because they're not going to read them anyway.

I fully agree with this, and the 'product' that I offer is ... FREE.

Yes, I have had to tweak the instructions in my valve adjust spreadsheet a couple of times to eliminate a bit of confusion, and the number of 'complaints' has been rather low lately. I have been a bit surprised at some of the guys who sent me copies of their results, and really could not believe what I was seeing. It is sometimes hard to keep a civil tongue when I write back "if you will note, in instruction #3, it says to NOT do that ...".

Overall, though, I think that having fewer than 20 'complaints' or problems with over 750 users is pretty good.

.

 

[posplayr]

I already have the important mods done....Would mean unmodding:-k....I did every mod in a reversable way anyway:lol:.

Can you talk a bit about those fuses? Actual fuses or resetable electronic relay-thing-a-ma-bob?



Now I am NOT cheap but I can be as cheap as any other on this forum. So make it $100 and I will be willing to pay $120 at the last minute.

What about shipping cost to foreign destinations?

Daniel

There are different types of fuses/current and thermal limits. I am still evaluating this but there will probably be one main fuse (e.g 20A) just as a fail safe which primarily protects against an R/R short. All other "protections" are at the 10 amp level. The un-switched battery is a reset-able poly switch.

http://www.te.com/content/dam/te/gl...-center/documents/polyswitch-fundamentals.pdf

The switched circuits use FET's that are controlled by various sensing mechanism which cycle or shut down the FET switch until the fault(s) are removed. Effectively , that means they are reset-able as well. There are different technologies involved (most of which are quite common if not specific to automotive application) so finding the right mix to meet standard motorcycle loads. The current profiles of each circuit vary between themselves and vary with the operation of the bike significantly. Ultimately we are only dealing with about 220 watts total delivered (15 amps), so part of the design challenge and testing verification is to ensure the individual circuits limit instead of just allowing the main to blow and do so in a way that protects the circuits.

I'm hoping everything will fit in a small standard rate USPS box for domestic. I'll have to get back with you on what is more cost effective for international shipping but USPS seems to have been competitive in the past.

 

[posplayr]

Interesting. I like the fuseless design, and I'm not entirely happy with my current replacement fuse block.

Well that was my thought as well, the hope is that this thing just does it's job and you never have to worry about all the contacts and fuses, power and grounding, relay mods

 

[Danaconda7]

I would gladly pay for that.

 

[Guest]

Sounds like a winner to me.:dancing:

 

[posplayr]

I would gladly pay for that.

Sounds like a winner to me.:dancing:

Thanks for the positive comments, I'll keep pressing on.

 

[BassCliff]

Hi Jim,

This is an ambitious project. You are the geek for it and I am quite interested in the final outcome.

Are you thinking of bundling all of the miscellaneous parts like molex connectors, crimp pins, external 20a fuse assembly, ring terminals, etc? The "everything you need" aspect is handy for us enthusiasts. I appreciate your hard work.


Take care,

Cliff

 

[posplayr]

Hi Jim,

This is an ambitious project. You are the geek for it and I am quite interested in the final outcome.

Are you thinking of bundling all of the miscellaneous parts like molex connectors, crimp pins, external 20a fuse assembly, ring terminals, etc? The "everything you need" aspect is handy for us enthusiasts. I appreciate your hard work.


Take care,

Cliff

That is the idea Cliff. I'm still a little concerned about needing too expensive of a crimper, and hoping a cheap crimper with a descent solder job and shrink tubing will be adequate.

Most of the other fuse boxes either use screw terminals either with a ring lug or a tinned end of a wire. This really uses up a lot of space and it just won't easily fit in the stock location/form factor .
For now I'm starting with the 4"x2"x1.5" max outside dimensions.

By bringing in the R/R(+) and Battery(+) connections directly to the PCB, it avoids needing higher current contacts in the connector. Only 5 of the 10 wires are carrying that much current which is 10 amps maximum and substantially less most of the time. There is only about 15 amps total available.

I also know people are gravitating to more expensive connectors like Metri-Pack, but the majority of the harness is generally Molex, and with the re organization of the circuits there should be no issues with staying with this type of connector. The alternative is to solder wires right into the PCB to form pigtails for a water proof connector. The problem then is having to crimp and solder twice as many pins plus you are going to be looking at a $50 cost on the connectors alone.:-s

I just don't see the benefits outweighing the cost.

 

[GS(X)400]

Very interested in this.

 

[BassCliff]

Thanks Jim,

That is the idea Cliff. I'm still a little concerned about needing too expensive of a crimper, and hoping a cheap crimper with a descent solder job and shrink tubing will be adequate.

I was just thinking just parts and a list of necessary/suggested tools being included in the kit. Let the installer provide their own tools. I wasn't suggesting that you include tools in the kits. That would either be cost prohibitive or cause installation problems due to cheap tools.

All the best,

Cliff

 

[salty_monk]

For those that really can't solder I've had very good luck with (and seen very good reviews of) the posi-tite line.

I use them for things such as the relay switch tap (posi-tap) and for wires I might need to remove once in a while etc.

My KLR has a few of them fitted & even with the thumper vibrations & some offroad use they haven't posed a problem. (Not sure about BWringer's submarine usage though... )

http://www.posi-lock.com/index.html

What about adopting some lessons from a company already used to dealing with the general populace & putting a bus with screw terminals down each side?
This was going to be my next electrical upgrade but I guess I'll wait & see now!

http://www.fuzeblocks.com/index.php

 

[posplayr]

Thanks Jim,



I was just thinking just parts and a list of necessary/suggested tools being included in the kit. Let the installer provide their own tools. I wasn't suggesting that you include tools in the kits. That would either be cost prohibitive or cause installation problems due to cheap tools.

All the best,

Cliff

Hey Cliff, I was not planning on providing tools, just worried about the skill level to do that but after reading here he has it pretty well covered and quality crimpers for less than $40 :dancing:

He does a good job showing how to crimp and solder.

Jim


http://www.cycleterminal.com/crimp-tools.html

 

[Roostabunny]

Subscribing to this thread. I've got "kits" of interest, especially if the possibility of adapting to pre-'83 models comes through. My idea is that I'll eventually rebuild my engine, and when I've got that out of there... well, lots of other stuff might as well gotta happen.

 

[JEEPRUSTY]

My fusebox attaches with three prongy thingys on the back

I would imagine a stout application of velcro would suffice to attach the given unit.

As for molex connectors why not use a receptacle that will take the OEM plug. Doing that would minimize tedious handiwork.

 

[Hakamisu]

You might at least consider the reduction in size and footprint if you could replace your fusebox and bank of relays with this one unit. The signal channel will easily handle the led loads; other than that most all circuits will be the same.

I do agree, but at the same time, if one of the $5 relays fail, it will cost me $5. If by some random act of who knows (this is in no way down playing or insulting your briliance), the SSPB fails, I am out quite a bit more.

 

[Guest]

Subscribing to this thread. I've got "kits" of interest, especially if the possibility of adapting to pre-'83 models comes through. My idea is that I'll eventually rebuild my engine, and when I've got that out of there... well, lots of other stuff might as well gotta happen.

Yea, how is the 82 1100e different from the 83, electrically?

 

[Steve]

Yea, how is the 82 1100e different from the 83, electrically?

I know the fuse box area changed on the 850s from '82 to '83, so I just looked at the fiche for the 1100, but did not see any changes there.

There might be one or two small detail differences, but I don't know what they are.

.

 

[posplayr]

I know the fuse box area changed on the 850s from '82 to '83, so I just looked at the fiche for the 1100, but did not see any changes there.

There might be one or two small detail differences, but I don't know what they are.

.

The only diff between EZ and Ed is turn signal control connector

 

[scrapper]

Its about time someone did this.This will take off and you will end up having to do some for the other brands of bikes . You will end up filthy rich and have nothing to do with us any more. Then all your stuff will be made in china, making you even richer. Lucky dog... :clap:

 

[posplayr]

My fusebox attaches with three prongy thingys on the back

I would imagine a stout application of velcro would suffice to attach the given unit.

As for molex connectors why not use a receptacle that will take the OEM plug. Doing that would minimize tedious handiwork.

That is a good idea, but there a few issues.

1.) The OEM (fuse box side) matting contacts are special purpose made by combining the copper fuse box contacts as spade contacts. The OEM connector on the harness has female spade ends. Most right angle PCB mount connectors are pins. How to get from a pin to a male spade?

2.) For flexibility I'm shooting for 10 contacts in the connector although it could be reduced to 8 by running more wires outside of the harnesses connection.

3.) After reviewing other websites, crimping and solder is kinda expected. We are only talking about 10 contacts and then you are done. worst case you have to buy a $10 crimper. Not pretty but it can get the job done.