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Solid State Power Box

That is awesome news! I think I was one of the firsts on the list correct? I will make sure and set aside the funds then for next week.

I thought you had mentioned the relay function which is really cool. I'm just using the basic, popular coil relay mod that most everyone is using. So I should remove the relay and put the wiring back to stock when using this correct?

Man this is gonna be so awesome. Thanks again for working on this Posplayr!
 
posplayr said:
So the glass bulb is only 35 mm (1.38") tall correct? So this actually shorter than the SSPB even without the LED protrusion (minimum of 1.56" or 1.63" with LED mounts ). As per your pictures the 78-9 GS1000 fusebox is the abbreviated short (in length) model and so the longer boxes have to move to the left on the mounting plate anyway. So even if the SSPB fit the small fuse box bolt pattern there is not enough room due to the frame. So the only relevant question is how much clearance is there under the cover in the location where you moved the longer blade fuse box.?

I understand that you had to cut 6mm off of the 83 750 blade type boxes cover to avoid interference but it also stuck out more due to the mounting plate. So if you don't mind, what is the total stack height of your plate and modified 83 750 fuse box. That is probably close to the maximum height available under the GS 1000 cover at the location where you moved your blade fuse box.
Click to expand...
As luck would have it I got a stock electrics plate with the wiring loom I can take a pic with both for reference.It will have to wait til tomorrow as we have an engagement to go to soon.Get a total height to.
 
Ready to go whenever you are Jim.... No huge rush either though! Whatever is easiest for you. :)
 


The total height of the modified blade box and mount is 40 mm.It's close but I think your box will just clear.
 
SVSooke said:


The total height of the modified blade box and mount is 40 mm.It's close but I think your box will just clear.
Click to expand...

Thanks,
That is wild how far out that R/R is sticking out; Does the side cover fit over that??? At 40mm that is 1.575" which is slightly less than the SSPB with steel LED mounts at 1.625".

There is probably going to be some frame interference putting in the SSPB in that original location; a tabless design shifted closer to the R/R would probably do similar to your solution.
 
checkout the additional YouTube videos posted at the head of the thread.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=210261

Just a reminder. These will be $150 + Shipping for the initial production run with a 3 year limited warranty meaning I will fix or replace the units. The units should be robust but if something breaks and I learn something I will either fix it unless there is a chronic problem I will replace it with the next generation.


So if you want to place an order:
  1. send me an email at SolidStatePowerBox@gmail.com including your GSR handle.
  2. Please specify what heatsink style you want. (Tabless is the smallest and most flexible)
  3. Please specify the bike it is to be installed on.
  4. If you know what R/R let me know
  5. If you have a picture of the mounting location that shows the relation to the R/R , solenoid relay and fuse box this will help will help avoid any potential issues early on with wire length or fit.
 
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Happy Thanksgivings everyone.

I have gone back through my records and have either emailed or PM'ed people that had previously confirmed they wanted a SSPB.

If you have not already received an email from me and you want to get in on orders shipped by Dec 10th 2013 then email me at SolidStatePowerBox@gmail.com for more info.
 
So, it occurred to me this morning that on the bike I plan to use this on, I will be deleting the electric starter and related circuit altogether (kick-start only).

Looking over the diagram, it does not appear that this will be an issue, but I WILL be left with this brilliantly-designed, yet unused 'Start Switch' circuit.

Is there anything I'm missing? Will running this unit in a 'kicker only' application present any issues that I'm not seeing? Any ideas for alternative usage of the 'relay mod' switch?
 
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Stahlgrau333 said:
So, it occurred to me this morning that on the bike I plan to use this one, I will be deleting the electric starter and related circuit altogether (kick-start only).

Looking over the diagram, it does not appear that this will be an issue, but I WILL be left with this brilliantly-designed, yet unused 'Start Switch' circuit.

Is there anything I'm missing? Will running this unit in a 'kicker only' application present any issues that I'm not seeing? Any ideas for alternative usage of the 'relay mod' switch?
Click to expand...

If you want the headlamp to cut out while cranking you could leave the button connected . This would be in case you don't have a switch to turn on and off the light. Of course you would need to depress it to get the light to cutout while foot cranking.

If you leave the start input disconnected the headlamp will just come on with the ignition switch.

You could do something like detect when you are cranking (I think other bikes put a diode onto the stator AC to get a DC signal and use that to signal the SSBP start input to cutout the headlamp for a fixed delay. You would have to figure out a simple way to so that. I cant add a fixed time delay into the SSPB any easy way; It doesn't have any software inside. :)

Something simple might be an RC time delay driving a FET to create the start signal for a period after you start cranking.
 
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posplayr said:
If you want the headlamp to cut out while cranking you could leave the button connected . This would be in case you don't have a switch to turn on and off the light. Of course you would need to depress it to get the light to cutout while foot cranking.

If you leave the start input disconnected the headlamp will just come on with the ignition switch.

You could do something like detect when you are cranking (I think other bikes put a diode onto the stator AC to get a DC signal and use that to signal the SSBP start input to cutout the headlamp for a fixed delay. You would have to figure out a simple way to so that. I cant add a fixed time delay into the SSPB any easy way; It doesn't have any software inside. :)

Something simple might be an RC time delay driving a FET to create the start signal for a period after you start cranking.
Click to expand...

I'm glad to see that my thinking was in line with yours.

I don't believe the '79 came with a HL On/Off switch, so I was thinking that when I build the new harness I could tie all of the lights (except t/s) into a single manual switch on that circuit, using it in place of the 'Start' switch, but in reverse. Essentially, it would be an additional 'accessory' circuit in my application.
 
The '79s had the switch, but it won't work until you modify it. They added a little tit to the back of the knob to block the switch from moving. Cut it off and the switch functions normally.

I just did this last week to my new '79 GS550.
 
Stahlgrau333 said:
I'm glad to see that my thinking was in line with yours.

I don't believe the '79 came with a HL On/Off switch, so I was thinking that when I build the new harness I could tie all of the lights (except t/s) into a single manual switch on that circuit, using it in place of the 'Start' switch, but in reverse. Essentially, it would be an additional 'accessory' circuit in my application.
Click to expand...

You don't want to put all the lights on a single circuit. Each is limited to 10 amps max and they are typically only 5 amps. Blinker/Brakes is 5-7 amps and Headlamp is 5 amps with peaks to 9. If you do LED's this would be different and combining some with headlamp might work.

Another alternative is that I "red wire" gang (special for you before I pot the PCB) the ACC and HEADLAMP channels so they both act in unison (as the HEADLAMP circuit currently does alone) and dim when the start is active. That would give you two 10 amp circuits to cut out while cranking.
 
posplayr said:
You don't want to put all the lights on a single circuit. Each is limited to 10 amps max and they are typically only 5 amps. Blinker/Brakes is 5-7 amps and Headlamp is 5 amps with peaks to 9. If you do LED's this would be different and combining some with headlamp might work.

Another alternative is that I "red wire" gang (special for you before I pot the PCB) the ACC and HEADLAMP channels so they both act in unison (as the HEADLAMP circuit currently does alone) and dim when the start is active. That would give you two 10 amp circuits to cut out while cranking.
Click to expand...

Good points. I think leaving the headlamp on it's own separately-switched circuit is the best route to go. That would also allow me to play with things like HIDs or LED T/S and marker lights on their own circuits.

I wouldn't want to have you customize anything, as I want to be able to give accurate feedback on the design, and also because I may use the box on multiple bikes.

I think a manual switch in place of the 'Start' button - possibly even wiring the OEM On/Off switch in it's place - will work best.
 
tkent02 said:
The '79s had the switch, but it won't work until you modify it. They added a little tit to the back of the knob to block the switch from moving. Cut it off and the switch functions normally.

I just did this last week to my new '79 GS550.
Click to expand...

I went out and looked, and sure enough, there's an On/Off switch there and it does work.

Looked again, and the 550 I'm working on is actually a '78, not a '79. Whoops. :oops:
 
Has anyone received their solid state and installed it yet? Just curious about how the installs are going and how everything is working.
 
Roland5color said:
Has anyone received their solid state and installed it yet? Just curious about how the installs are going and how everything is working.
Click to expand...

There was an PCB issue with the Rev A PCBs that were delivered back in August. It was only after assembling 20 boards did I find it out. The new Rev B boards arrived on Friday and I'm in the processes of assembling those but just discovered a major problem. I' going to go to a new vendor in the morning.
 
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Unfortunately there have been repeated defect rework cycles with Silver Circuits the PCB's manufacturer. :(:mad::confused:

http://www.custompcb.com/

So I have just ordered new PCBs' from Advanced Circuits a very good is not THE best quick turn PCB fab house around. Having gone through two revs already with Silver Circuits I feel confident in stepping up to a relatively large order for the Rev C boards.

http://www.4pcb.com/

Solid State Power Boxes should be available again by the end of January 2014 after the 10 units are delivered for existing orders.

Thanks for your patience and have a happy and safe New Years :dancing:
 
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Happy New Year, Jim, sorry you have been put through the wringer by "custom" pcb.

I remain patient, no hurry for mine. (I'm sure the desert dwellers are getting anxious).
 
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