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Straight 50 weight oil

  • Thread starter Thread starter JEEPRUSTY
  • Start date Start date
Yes, as Steve says, the W number indicates cold temp flowability; 10W flows easier than 20W, etc. The highest is 30W. As oils get thicker than this there is no real point of testing the cold flowability since that stuff don't flow for crap.

The second number is the viscosity rating at 100 C* - the higher the thicker of course.

So 20W-50 and straight 50 will have the same high temperature thickness, only the 20W-50 will flow decently at low temps but the 50 won't. Personally, I'm not aware of any advantage in using straight weight oil, or an oil with a higher W number.

Straight weight oils have less additives in them which some people think is better under some situations. A number of years ago this may have had some value but that's pretty questionable these days for a road going vehicle.
 
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Sure he does. I can't read his postings. :p

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Jesus Christ "GS Resources Superstar"
 
Yes, as Steve says, the W number indicates cold temp flowability; 10W flows easier than 20W, etc. The highest is 30W. As oils get thicker than this there is no real point of testing the cold flowability since that stuff don't flow for crap.

The second number is the viscosity rating at 100 C* - the higher the thicker of course.

So 20W-50 and straight 50 will have the same high temperature thickness, only the 20W-50 will flow decently at low temps but the 50 won't. Personally, I'm not aware of any advantage in using straight weight oil, or an oil with a higher W number.

Straight weight oils have less additives in them which some people think is better under some situations. A number of years ago this may have had some value but that's pretty questionable these days for a road going vehicle.


This is not true, as I understand it from a perspective of synthetics. It seems the inverse is true. Regardless my question was sincere and does not warrant a fake smiley and a condescending suoerstar response.
 
I think, on a GS with it's roller bearings, you could run anything and everything and not ever have an oil related problem. It just isn't critical on these engines, in normal use. 50w, OK, 10w would probably be fine too. Anything in between, gravy. Actually real gravy would probably work for a while too. Why I bet even peanut butter would work.
 
At 85 degrees+, check your owners manual. ;)

Daniel
I did. :p

It doesn't say to stop using 10w-40, but it does allow 20w-50.



I think, on a GS with it's roller bearings, you could run anything and everything and not ever have an oil related problem. It just isn't critical on these engines, in normal use. 50w, OK, 10w would probably be fine too. Anything in between, gravy. Actually real gravy would probably work for a while too. Why I bet even peanut butter would work.
You know, if it were ALL roller bearings, I could go along with that, but there are those pesky CAM BEARINGS that are not even babbit inserts, they are simply machined aluminum.
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Just to clarify some of the incorrect information that has been spread about what a terrible idea it is to add one quart
of straight 50W to 3 quarts of 20W-50 at over 85 degrees...
Also notice what is says about which fuel OCTANE to use!
From the FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL:

DSC03875.jpg

DSC03874.jpg



Daniel ;)
 
...
Also notice what is says about which fuel OCTANE to use!
From the FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL:

DSC03875.jpg
This would also be a good time to point out that octane is measured differently in different parts of the world. There are two basic methods: Research and Motor. I don't remember which one is a higher number, but here in the USA, we use an average of the two numbers (R+M)/2.
 
Just to clarify some of the incorrect information that has been spread about what a terrible idea it is to add one quart
of straight 50W to 3 quarts of 20W-50 at over 85 degrees...
Also notice what is says about which fuel OCTANE to use!
From the FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL:


Daniel ;)

So again, there is no 50W oil. SAE 50 yes, but no 50W.

As far as adding a quart of 50 to 20W-50 for temps above 85* F, I don't see a lot of harm there, although I also don't see any benefit either.
 
You guys are funny, another stinking war in the world over oil.. :p People love to fight over oil...
 
You guys are funny, another stinking war in the world over oil.. :p People love to fight over oil...

I love oil threads!!!:twistedevil::twistedevil:

I think the main problem with oil threads is some people think they know what they are talking about but don't.:p In other words, people post BAD technical information and state it as fact, and then others (like me) come along and contradict the post (sometimes with more bad information). Funny thing, go to the Bob IS The Oil Guy forum and there are very few arguments. Those guys know what they are talking about and don't post BS.:)
 
I love oil threads!!!:twistedevil::twistedevil:

I think the main problem with oil threads is some people think they know what they are talking about but don't.:p In other words, people post BAD technical information and state it as fact, and then others (like me) come along and contradict the post (sometimes with more bad information). Funny thing, go to the Bob IS The Oil Guy forum and there are very few arguments. Those guys know what they are talking about and don't post BS.:)

If it's slick and clean it will do the trick it seems, :D

Every 1500 miles Rotella T 15-40 year round, in the summer I put one pint of STP oil treatment (blue bottle) in with the T, My 82 KZ1100 loved the stuff and I'm sure the GS will thank me as well, haha

Cheaper than the synthetics and will protect to 1500 miles
 
Straight weight oils have less additives in them which some people think is better under some situations. A number of years ago this may have had some value but that's pretty questionable these days for a road going vehicle.


No idea at all... :-\\\

Daniel
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No idea at all... :-\\\

Daniel
tip.gif

Yet another person that doesn't know about oil.:p

To make a multi-weight oil the oil companies start with a low viscosity straight weight oil such as 10W. 10W flows well at low temperatures but gets very thin at higher temperatures - not much of a market for 10W-10 oil:p. To make a multi-weight oil special long chain polymer additives called viscosity index improvers are added to the oil so it will not thin so much at normal sump temperatures. In the end the 10W oil becomes 10W-XX, depending on how much of these additives are added.

These polymer additives are good for improving the viscosity at high temperatures but they can leave deposits behind on things like the rings which run very hot. Back in the GS era Yamaha sold a 20W-40 oil because they were trying to mimimize these additives and the build up they left behind.

Diesel oil is typically 15W-40 but the synthetic is 5W-40 so they have much more of these additives. I'm not an expert and can't say if these additives are something to be concern with or not, and I can't say if these polymer additives have changed over the years to lessen the negative impact. I just know that some engine people are concern about this situation thus my comment about additives.
 
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