Time to replace my R/R

[Adler]

I think its finally time to replace my R/R.

I have decided to go the cheap Shindengen route.

I have been searching for the following models;
sh541
sh531
sh232
sh538
sh538a

The 538 seems to be the most common model that works with our bikes.

Any other models that you guys recommend I add to the hunt?

 

[Steve]

So you "think" it's time? Why aren't you SURE? :-k

I'm sure you have seen THE LIST that is posted on "some guy's" website.

Not sure about the numbers in your list, but the Honda units tended to be better than the Suzuki units, so look for them, if you want to stay with an ACR-based system. If you want to go to an FET-based system, they are available, too, and for about the same price.

.

 

[tom203]

So you "think" it's time? Why aren't you SURE? :-k

.

Why be sure, when you can just quess? My onboard voltmeter behaved strangely two days ago- never changed while running, so I figured the meter had failed. Shut off and found meter was ok, but R/R was hotter than normal after 20 minute ride. Wired up my spare Shindengen (30 year old SH-232 ) and life was good again. About 13 volts at idle and 14 above 3k.

 

[Adler]

So you "think" it's time? Why aren't you SURE? :-k

I'm sure you have seen THE LIST that is posted on "some guy's" website.

Not sure about the numbers in your list, but the Honda units tended to be better than the Suzuki units, so look for them, if you want to stay with an ACR-based system. If you want to go to an FET-based system, they are available, too, and for about the same price.

.

I have yet to do the proper tests but I don't think changing this particular part before its time will be a waste of money.

My first clue that I had a problem was the headlight blowing. Then the idiot lights started blowing. The idiot lights get VERY bright when the RPM's increase. Then the gear indicator lights started getting so hot that they melted the plastic in front of them.

These seem to be the hallmarks of overcharging.

Anyways, I found this and bought it, pretty cheap, so when I get around to testing the regulator, I wont kill myself if it checks out

 

[koolaid_kid]

No Need to test, your regulator is not regulating.

 

[Adler]

No Need to test, your regulator is not regulating.

My thoughts exactly.


Has anyone else used the Shindengen SH538A-12? Any word on it?

 

[Adler]

Hi Adler.

Your bike runs well and long enough to melt plastic???

I didn't know that could happen.

How did the 6 melt? Surely you don't have 6 gears.

DP

It didn't take very long, it happened in my 15 minute test run. It shouldn't get that hot, I think the voltage to the gear indicator must have been WAY too high.

Indeed I do have 6 gears , the 550's are blessed. I didn't melt the 6 though, the bike came like that. I didn't think anything of it until now.

 

[Nessism]

Why actively choose an old type unit when FET type are cheap and readily available?

 

[Steve]

I have yet to do the proper tests but I don't think changing this particular part before its time will be a waste of money.

I see that you got it cheaply enough, but it still might not have been necessary.

My first clue that I had a problem was the headlight blowing. Then the idiot lights started blowing. The idiot lights get VERY bright when the RPM's increase. Then the gear indicator lights started getting so hot that they melted the plastic in front of them.

Good clues, indeed, but "bad regulator" should not be an automatic assumption.

No Need to test, your regulator is not regulating.

True enough, but WHY isn't it regulating? Could be as simple as a bad ground wire on the R/R.
One of the tests in the stator papers is to measure the voltage from the ground wire near the R/R to a known good ground point.
A bad connection from the R/R to ground will show up as a sizeable voltage.

It didn't take very long, it happened in my 15 minute test run. It shouldn't get that hot, I think the voltage to the gear indicator must have been WAY too high.

You won't know that for sure until you MEASURE the voltage. The previous owner might have also installed bulbs that were too large.
Our good friend Mr. Nessism has the ultimate advice in his signature: "To measure is to know."

Yeah, it's probably the R/R, just giving you other possibilites, too.

.

 

[Adler]

Why actively choose an old type unit when FET type are cheap and readily available?

All the ones I found were at least 3 times the price of the one I got.

I see that you got it cheaply enough, but it still might not have been necessary.

Agreed

Good clues, indeed, but "bad regulator" should not be an automatic assumption.

Agreed

True enough, but WHY isn't it regulating? Could be as simple as a bad ground wire on the R/R.
One of the tests in the stator papers is to measure the voltage from the ground wire near the R/R to a known good ground point.
A bad connection from the R/R to ground will show up as a sizeable voltage.

I considered the grounds and have moved them to a single ground as is recommended. The negative battery cable and the R/R ground are the same. Even so, I am prepared to be wrong, I don't think an upgraded R/R is a bad thing, even if the old one was fine.

You won't know that for sure until you MEASURE the voltage. The previous owner might have also installed bulbs that were too large.
Our good friend Mr. Nessism has the ultimate advice in his signature: "To measure is to know."

The previous owner couldn't have installed bigger bulbs on the gear indicator, they are built in. Even so, I agree, I will do proper tests when I have the time.

Yeah, it's probably the R/R, just giving you other possibilites, too.

Thanks .
.

 

[Steve]

Why actively choose an old type unit when FET type are cheap and readily available?

All the ones I found were at least 3 times the price of the one I got.

Please don't be afraid to ask for help with search criteria.

$30.20

$36.00

$39.89

$44.20

$44.95

$45.00

$47.99

$57.99

There were three more on the list, I got tired of typing.

All for less than three times more than what you paid for yours.
(all prices include shipping)

.

 

[Adler]

Please don't be afraid to ask for help with search criteria.

$30.20

$36.00

$39.89

$44.20

$44.95

$45.00

$47.99

$57.99

There were three more on the list, I got tired of typing.

All for less than three times more than what you paid for yours.
(all prices include shipping)

.

Oh wow... I would have ordered one of those if I found them.

If you don't mind my asking, what search terms did you give ebay to get those?

 

[duaneage]

Why actively choose an old type unit when FET type are cheap and readily available?

Because the Honda RRs are a perfect fit, easy to wire, and last for decades.

 

[Adler]

Well, its been almost a month and the R/R didn't arrive

I can't really complain about the seller because today they apologized and refunded my money but I would rather have the R/R than my money.

So it looks like I'm in the market again. Perhaps I will consider an FET unit this time around.

 

[kb_air]

im in the market for a r/r to replace my separate units. i saw the post with the price-links, but these dont look anything like my units i have now, and im afraid i wouldn't know how to hook them up. any ideas?

 

[kb_air]

how do you wire these up?? you have a pin diagram for this unit? is there a cheap version of this with pigtails available?

Please don't be afraid to ask for help with search criteria.

$30.20

$36.00

$39.89

$44.20

$44.95

$45.00

$47.99

$57.99

There were three more on the list, I got tired of typing.

All for less than three times more than what you paid for yours.
(all prices include shipping)

.

 

[BassCliff]

Hi,

im in the market for a r/r to replace my separate units. i saw the post with the price-links, but these dont look anything like my units i have now, and im afraid i wouldn't know how to hook them up. any ideas?

Note: The black "sense" wire is not present on all units. Other units may have 2 grounds and/or 2 outputs (red).


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[tom203]

Well, its been almost a month and the R/R didn't arrive

I can't really complain about the seller because today they apologized and refunded my money but I would rather have the R/R than my money.

So it looks like I'm in the market again. Perhaps I will consider an FET unit this time around.

That stinks! find this ebay item #290618551425 ; this one should work,but go to his store for a bunch more R/R's with pricing/shipping reasonable.

 

[duaneage]

how do you wire these up?? you have a pin diagram for this unit? is there a cheap version of this with pigtails available?

Click on the link at the bottom of my sig line.

 

[Steve]

If you don't mind my asking, what search terms did you give ebay to get those?

Go to ebay, type in "regulator (foreman,rubicon)" in the search window (without the quote marks, of course).
Sort the results with lowest price first.
Scroll down the list, looking for the regulators that have TWO sets of terminals.

how do you wire these up?? you have a pin diagram for this unit? is there a cheap version of this with pigtails available?

This picture should help:

The terminals in the GRAY connector are your stator inputs. The terminal in the BLACK connector that is closest to the stator wires is your POSITIVE output. The terminal farthest away is your NEGATIVE terminal. The center terminal in the black connector is not used.

You can get the connectors or a complete harness from Eastern Beaver.

.