to measure the actual value do as instructed before, if you are measuring near zero lower the range till you read something.
Also so how do you know your battery is dead?
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to measure the actual value do as instructed before, if you are measuring near zero lower the range till you read something.
Also so how do you know your battery is dead?
You moved the probes into correct plug for 200 millamp readings? Beware lots of meters have a .2 amp fuse to protect themselves- if your current draw was more than .2 amp, the fuse might have blown. Don't ask me how many I've cooked this way!
we covered that already
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081dbx64
Guest
My battery was purchased in April...I had it tested at a motorcycle shop. they said it was low. I charged it...it starts the bike.
I think a combination of things is happening here. My old R/R has a bad diode in it. When I checked it and did the reverse bias test on one of the top diodes I got a reading of 1.142. (That is also the very same lead that has a voltage.) The others do not.
In any event my old R/R is bad..I had thought that was the reason the battery would drain. If I let the bike sit for a few days after riding a long time the battery would go completely dead..If I drove the heck out of it I would charge. However if I just put it on a battery charger it would drain overnight if it was plugged back into the bike.
I replaced the R/R and it seems this new one is not working. I did the tests with my meter according to the manufactures site. I get a 1 on the forward bias test on the bottom diodes of the new R/R. So I am going to try to return it.
The other problem is my stator..don't know if these are related. But if one of the top diode's is bad and there is voltage at one of the wires that goes into the stator could that not drain the battery if the stator is grounded?
Don't know what to do but replace the stator at this point.
I think a combination of things is happening here. My old R/R has a bad diode in it. When I checked it and did the reverse bias test on one of the top diodes I got a reading of 1.142. (That is also the very same lead that has a voltage.) The others do not.
In any event my old R/R is bad..I had thought that was the reason the battery would drain. If I let the bike sit for a few days after riding a long time the battery would go completely dead..If I drove the heck out of it I would charge. However if I just put it on a battery charger it would drain overnight if it was plugged back into the bike.
I replaced the R/R and it seems this new one is not working. I did the tests with my meter according to the manufactures site. I get a 1 on the forward bias test on the bottom diodes of the new R/R. So I am going to try to return it.
The other problem is my stator..don't know if these are related. But if one of the top diode's is bad and there is voltage at one of the wires that goes into the stator could that not drain the battery if the stator is grounded?
Don't know what to do but replace the stator at this point.
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081dbx64
Guest
Here is how I determine my battery is dead.
The bike will not turn over...it turns over and starts find once I charge it.
The bike will not turn over...it turns over and starts find once I charge it.
Yeah, well I missed the safety fuse part and it seems strange that he got no current reading when he switched to lower range.
So you can charge your bike, start it to confirm the battery is good . Then let it sit over nite and it will not start? Therefore you conclude you have a drain?
Is that correct?
If so when was the last time you did that?
And remember you just got finished saying you measure the drain off of the negative terminal and it is zero?
The battery could be draining but it woudl have to be internal to the battery and nothing to do with the GS electical. I hear people reporting plates shorting internal on batteries although I have never seen it.
You might just have a shorted plate in the battery?
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sorry, you think he has already blown is safety fuse? could be but he was on the 10 amp scale getting nothing . easy enough put a light across the battery in series with te amp meter and see if it flow anything.
he still has not reported getting zero amps at the lowest scale.
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081dbx64
Guest
F&&K my fuse is blown. I hooked up another meter and I now get current flow past the main fuse.
And past the red wire into the R/R.
Does the burnt fuse affect the ohm readings? I'm guessing not.
And past the red wire into the R/R.
Does the burnt fuse affect the ohm readings? I'm guessing not.
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what fuse? meter fuse? how much flow on what range?
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081dbx64
Guest
The meter fuse is blown. So I went to my old trusty analog meter. On the DC amp setting of 500m the reading is ....**** I don't know. I have not used this thing is years. But the meter moved about 3 marks on a 0 - 250 scale.
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081dbx64
Guest
I'm done with this for today. Tomorrow its' off to radio shack to buy some fuses.
well were up to 75 posts to detemine the fuse was blow.
next time always measure "a know" to for a "sanity check" (yours) on the meter.
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081dbx64
Guest
Well
I do know there is definectly a current draw over the main fuse and also between the red wire on the R/R.
I do know there is definectly a current draw over the main fuse and also between the red wire on the R/R.
once you confirm they are one and the same they you will know the R/R is bad.
This may explain your shorted stator measurements. He is getting the same thing; voltage output with a shorted stator. That should only work with a "Y" stator winding
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=1300056&postcount=9
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=1300056&postcount=9
These are quick acting special fuses- make sure you get same size- .2 not .5 ! - to protect your meter. Sears also sells them , since lots of their Chinese meters use them and many folks like me are always needing them.
I recently destroyed my favorite meter by checking a bug zapper- apparently the ac voltage is ligher than 750-the meter fuses only protect current readings, so my meter got fried!
