Voltage Leak .01 amps

[081dbx64]

If I pull the red or yellow wire on the wireing harness from the R/R it goes away. My stator puts out 70 volts or so... I'm really scratching my head here. The only thing left is the red wire from the R/R. I know it ends up at the ignition switch but I disconneded the switch. I suppose it could be the starter solenoid.

Will check that now..just by pass and go directly to battery.

Nope not the solenoid.

Any ideas?

 

[081dbx64]

Ok..some more information. I checked the ohm reading between all three windings on the stator. .001 on all three. I also check the continuity to ground on the stator wires. All three have continuity.

I'm pretty positive this is not right. This was the one test I did not do. I did the voltage test and the ohm test. How is it my system charges correctly with this problem?

Any ideas...I don't want to order a new stator if that's not the problem. Any particular place to order one?

 

[posplayr]

If I disconnect the red wire from the R/R it goes away. If I leave it connected my battery drains over night every time. If I disconnect it it does not drain. Brand new R/R.

I also disconnected all the orange wires from the fuse box...still does not solve the problem. I disconnected the ignition switch in the headlight and it still does not go away.

What next?

if you are draining the battery over nite it is more than 0.01 amps (more like 1 amp) and it is not likely the NEW R/R.

Sound more like a short.

 

[tom203]

Ok..some more information. I checked the ohm reading between all three windings on the stator. .001 on all three. I also check the continuity to ground on the stator wires. All three have continuity.

I'm pretty positive this is not right. This was the one test I did not do. I did the voltage test and the ohm test. How is it my system charges correctly with this problem?

Any ideas...I don't want to order a new stator if that's not the problem. Any particular place to order one?

The resistance across any two stator wires ( disconnected from r/r ) will be about 1 ohm, not .001! I think you're having trouble with your meter readings.I rather doubt that there is any continuity between any stator lead and ground, cuz you wouldn't get 70 volt ac output during the test. and your charging would be poor.
Anyways, disconnecting the red wire from r/r stops current- just where are you disconnecting it?? It seems unlikely that two r/r's would do the same thing- i.e., allow reverse flow. So it must be somewhere in that red wire- doublecheck its insulation from your disconnection point.

 

[081dbx64]

I'm definitely getting connectivity between ground and the stator wires. I used a continuity tester and a ohm meter between the yellow wires and ground.

I don't understand why I'm getting good charging either. I'm leaning towards a new stator..the bike is 30 years old and the one there is the original. Don't know.

 

[tom203]

I'm definitely getting connectivity between ground and the stator wires. I used a continuity tester and a ohm meter between the yellow wires and ground.

I don't understand why I'm getting good charging either. I'm leaning towards a new stator..the bike is 30 years old and the one there is the original. Don't know.

Call me skepical, but with all stator wires disconnected from r/r, you have continuity between any/all stator wires and ground? Given a choice between pushing juice up thru r/r and battery, or shorting to ground, the stator would choose the easy path-to ground! When mine did this, I couldn't get 12 volts out of charging circuit ( but the stator did not look fried).

 

[081dbx64]

I don't know what to think....all I know is if i leave the yellow or red wire connected to the R/R my battery goes dead in a very short period of time.

 

[tom203]

I don't know what to think....all I know is if i leave the yellow or red wire connected to the R/R my battery goes dead in a very short period of time.

Well, I'm very stubborn, so what is this yellow wire and where does it connect (besides the r/r ) ? Does it connect to one stator output wire????
Not to worry, we'll beat this into solved status!

 

[081dbx64]

The yellow wire comes from the stator and hooks into the R/R.

 

[posplayr]

I'm definitely getting connectivity between ground and the stator wires. I used a continuity tester and a ohm meter between the yellow wires and ground.

I don't understand why I'm getting good charging either. I'm leaning towards a new stator..the bike is 30 years old and the one there is the original. Don't know.

just to be clear the stator tests are when the R/R is disconnected. When you use your ohm meter ,

Test to insure that you get zero ohms with the two leads connected to each other. Do not touch the metal parts of the leads.

What resistance do you get between yellow wires?

What resistance do you get between each yellow wire and engine block?

These tests should have nothing to do with your 0.01 amp leak.

 

[posplayr]

as far as the current drain, you should be able to isolate where the current is flowing. 1st off in order to drain a 14 Ah battery overnight will require a current of close to 1 amp, unless your battery is dead.

Since you think the drain is because of the R/R, and when you disconnect the red wire the drain goes away, do the following test.

1.) put the amp meter between the battery (-) and the negative battery cable to confirm the direction and magnitude of the drain. Current should be flowing into the negative terminal and something like 1.0 amp. What ever it is this is the total drain.

2.) reconnect the battery and put the amp meter in series with the red wire going to the R/R. If that is the source of the drain you should measure the same current. Confirm the current is flowing into the red wire on the R/R. Basically this means the R/R is bad if you see any current flowing into the R/R. That is because the upper leg diodes should block any current.

look at the R/R schematic , if the diodes are in tact current can not flow into the R/R red wire.

http://www.thegsresources.com/garage/gs_statorfacts.htm

Please report back after doing these couple of tests.

 

[081dbx64]

Ok..There are three wires coming out of my stator. Yellow - White/Blue - White/Green

My readings are as follows for OHMS set at 2k on my meter

White/Blue and White/Green = .001 OHMS
Yellow and White/Blue = .001 OHMS
Yellow and White/Green = .001

My readings to Ground

White/Green = 0 OHMS
White/Blue = .001 OHMS
Yellow = .001 OHMS

My Readings to Ground with Meter set to Contunity

White/Green = Audible BEEP
White/Blue = Audible BEEP
Yellow = Audible BEEP


It seems to me I should not get an audible beep between the white/Green and ground.

thanks everyone..not sure what to do yet.

 

[081dbx64]

Ok.

I disconnected the ground wire from the battery and hooked my amp meter between the ground strap and the battery. Reading is .004

I hooked the ground strap back to the battery.

I hooked up the R/R to the stator. Pulled the red wire and connected my amp meter between the red wire of the R/R and the wireing harness. Reading is .004

My amp meter was set to the 10A setting.

Thanks again.

 

[081dbx64]

Just to clarify

I put the red wire of the amp meter to ground and the black wire to the battery negative terminal.

If I put the red wire of the amp meter to the red wire on the R/R and the black wire of the amp meter to the red wire of the wiring harness I get a negative .04 current drain. If I switch the black and red wire of the amp meter I get a positive current drain.

I don't understand which way the current is flowing. I understand that current cannot flow into the R/R from the red wire? Right..don't know how to test for that.

 

[tom203]

Ok.

I disconnected the ground wire from the battery and hooked my amp meter between the ground strap and the battery. Reading is .004

Meter set to 2k is probably too high a range to measure 1 ohm- I just tried my meter on 200 range- gave me about 1 ohm across any two stator wires. But on 2k range, it said .000- but it was unstable. Your probes have to make real good contact to be accurate.
If that .004 refers to amp, that's really small- It would take days to drain a 14 ah battery. We have some kind of meter confusion here.

 

[081dbx64]

Ok...I just set it to 200K and get a reading of 0 between all three stator wires and between all three stator wires and ground.

 

[tom203]

Ok...I just set it to 200K and get a reading of 0 between all three stator wires and between all three stator wires and ground.

Wrong way! you need a meter that has a lower ohm range- most of new ones ( even cheapies) start at 200, then 2k, then 20k, then 200k. It's tough to measure 1 ohm with a range of 2k!

 

[081dbx64]

I think I may have gotten a bad R/R. I did the following.

With the R/R disconnected from bike.

Set my ohm meeter to 2K

Put the black wire of the Ohm meter on the Red wire from the R/R
I get these readings on each yellow wire from the R/R .747 - .759 - .739. It's my understanding that tests the three front diodes

Now I put the red wire of the OHM meter on the R/R Ground wire (black one). Now when I put the Red wire on each yellow wire from the R/R I get a reading of 1 or no change in the meter.

I'm thinking I have a combination of problems.

 

[posplayr]

I think I may have gotten a bad R/R. I did the following.

With the R/R disconnected from bike.

Set my ohm meeter to 2K

Put the black wire of the Ohm meter on the Red wire from the R/R
I get these readings on each yellow wire from the R/R .747 - .759 - .739. It's my understanding that tests the three front diodes

Now I put the red wire of the OHM meter on the R/R Ground wire (black one). Now when I put the Red wire on each yellow wire from the R/R I get a reading of 1 or no change in the meter.

I'm thinking I have a combination of problems.

measuring 0.5 ohm stator resistance on a 2K scale is meaningless, stop reporting those results. In fact your stator is probably fine as you meter is designed to measure the 70 V output you did measure and so the resistance "measurements" (I'll be gentle) do not contradict that because you could just as easily flipped a coin onto the floor and then covered your eyes and opened then each time you wanted a new measurement. (i.e. it a random and arbitrary result to use a 2K scale).

Also unless you really know what you are doing I would not use a 2K ohm scale as a diode tester. And don't use a continuity tester to measure sub ohm resistances.

Go spend $30 on an ohm meter or better yet $45 for an R/R from Duanage and sound like you problem might go away. I'm assuming something is draining your battery, and it goes away when you remove the red wire and by design current can not back flow into the R/R Red (+) wire.

just a clue, if you are measuring on a 2K ohms scale and lets say that it is a 3 1/2 digit meter. That means there are only 2002 ish unique display outputs starting at 0, 0.5, 1.0, 1.5, 2.0,.......... up to 2000.5

So 0.5 resolution with even worse accuracy is pretty crappy to be measureing 0.4-0.5 ohms

You should have something closer to a 200 ohm range where the same display would be

starting at 0.0, 0.05, 0.1, .15, .20,.......... up to 200.5 ohms Note this is just display resolution and not accuracy.

 

[081dbx64]

Well..now I really confused...I have what I believe to be a decent meter maybe I'm wrong. Velleman DVM850BL..

I have a brand new R/R installed. My current drain problem is still there.