Voltage Leak .01 amps

[081dbx64]

Ok

Here goes again with my meter set to 200 OHMS on my stator tests

Between ground and the White/Green .6 OHMS
Between ground and the White/Blue 1 OHMS
Between ground and the Yellow 1 OHMS

Between White/Green and White/Blue .9 OHMS
Between White/Green and Yellow .9 OHMS
Between White/Blue and Yellow .9 Ohms

 

[081dbx64]

I'm beginning to think my new R/R is bad. My old R/R has a .01 current draw and the new one has a .004 current draw.

 

[posplayr]

Well..now I really confused...I have what I believe to be a decent meter maybe I'm wrong. Velleman DVM850BL..

I have a brand new R/R installed. My current drain problem is still there.

EDIT: statments below are true but on review of the data sheet there is nothing wrong with this meter (by design at least)

That is a great buy for $2, but that doesnt mean it will fullfill all of the requirements you will ever have. Buy a meter with a basic diode tester and something like a 200 ohm range. It might cost $30. Of course price is not an absolute indicator of accuracy. Check the data sheet to figure out what the minimum resolution is for ohms and see if it has a diode tester.

http://www.google.com/products/cata...log_result&ct=result&resnum=3&ved=0CC0Q8wIwAg#

 

[posplayr]

I found the data sheet and down loaded it. (pm me your e-mail if you need it)

On the top of page 6 it lists the resistance ranges. Why are you not putting it on the 200 ohm scale right a 6" O clock on the dial? That has a 0.1 ohm resolution.

On the bottom of page 5 it says the buzzer will beep for anything below 1.5K ohms. Not a good test when looking for 0.5 ohms


It also has a diode tester to measure the forward voltage drop. That is good. You should be able to confirm the forward drops of the R/R bridge rectifier (0.7V) as described in the stator pages.


Also on page 5 you will see that this meter will read all the way down to 200uA that is 200 1 millions of an amp full scale. You need to get off of the 10 amp scale and put it on the 200 m amp scale since you are measuring such a small current. You have to put the red lead into plug #7 (on the right) not the 10 amp plug on the left.

Turns out this is a pretty descent meter, we are just dealling with operator error. :-\\\

 

[posplayr]

Ok

Here goes again with my meter set to 200 OHMS on my stator tests

Between ground and the White/Green .6 OHMS
Between ground and the White/Blue 1 OHMS
Between ground and the Yellow 1 OHMS

Between White/Green and White/Blue .9 OHMS
Between White/Green and Yellow .9 OHMS
Between White/Blue and Yellow .9 Ohms

are your leads plugged into 6 and 7 when you did the test? (see the manual)

 

[posplayr]

Ok.

I disconnected the ground wire from the battery and hooked my amp meter between the ground strap and the battery. Reading is .004

I hooked the ground strap back to the battery.

I hooked up the R/R to the stator. Pulled the red wire and connected my amp meter between the red wire of the R/R and the wireing harness. Reading is .004

My amp meter was set to the 10A setting.

Thanks again.

you need to redo this on a lower scale and move the plug to the lower current input on 7. As a general rule anythime you see a very low number in a reading, you should try to go to the next lower scale to see if you can measure the same thing. This applies to ohms, volts or current.

 

[posplayr]

I'm beginning to think my new R/R is bad. My old R/R has a .01 current draw and the new one has a .004 current draw.

are you measuring this on the 10Amp scale still?

 

[081dbx64]

Yes to measure the current drawn.

I checked my wiring harness..if there is a chafed wire it's not obvious.

 

[posplayr]

Yes to measure the current drawn.

I checked my wiring harness..if there is a chafed wire it's not obvious.

plain and simple the measurement you are indicating is off the bottom of the 10 amp scale. It is meaningless. Move to the 200 milliamp scale.

Do you have the manual?

I just responded to about 5 different posts from you. Please go back and read them.

 

[081dbx64]

Yes I have the manual...

http://www.vellemanusa.com/downloads...bnlfresdpl.pdf

I had a electronics class in high school. Used meters with an actual meter on it then. I switched the settings to 200m on the amp setting. Now I don't get any reading. Does this mean I don't have anything draining my battery?

I'm so sorry to wast everybody's time, but there is something wrong.
Why is it if I leave the red wire connected to my R/R overnight the battery drains?

 

[081dbx64]

yes my leads were plugged into 6 & 7

 

[posplayr]

Yes I have the manual...

http://www.vellemanusa.com/downloads...bnlfresdpl.pdf

I had a electronics class in high school. Used meters with an actual meter on it then. I switched the settings to 200m on the amp setting. Now I don't get any reading. Does this mean I don't have anything draining my battery?

I'm so sorry to wast everybody's time, but there is something wrong.
Why is it if I leave the red wire connected to my R/R overnight the battery drains?

Even though you seem to be having issues with the meter, I'm assuming you can tell when the battery is drained. I have stated this a few times in this thread. The only way that current is flowing from the battery into teh Red (+) wire of the R/R is if the R/R is broken. specifically one or more of the upper leg diodes is shorted.

Since you say your R/R is new, you are left with a.) confirming it is broke or b.) just replace it the R/R again.

I would confirm the current is really flowing into your R/R (meining it is broke) as it could also be a short some where in the red wire.

Put your amp meter on the 200 mamp scale on the 6 and 7 plugs and measure the current.

When you are on the 10 amp scale you move the plugs to 5 and 6.

So if you are measuring current on the 10 amp scale with the plugs in 6 and 7 that will give you a meaningless measurement.

 

[081dbx64]

S%%T.. Ya know if I would have used my one with the meter on it I would have seen that it did not move and switched to another setting. I guess with this digital stuff I did not occur to me that it would not tell me I was out of range. I FEEL LIKE A DUMBKUFF.

These are my settings from the stator test with my meter set to the 200 OHM range.


Here goes again with my meter set to 200 OHMS on my stator tests

Between ground and the White/Green .6 OHMS
Between ground and the White/Blue 1 OHMS
Between ground and the Yellow 1 OHMS

Between White/Green and White/Blue .9 OHMS
Between White/Green and Yellow .9 OHMS
Between White/Blue and Yellow .9 Ohms

Based on what I read since the stator gounds out my stator is bad. But that would only be a charging problem right? Could a stator that shorts to ground drain my battery through the R/R?

Thanks

 

[posplayr]

Based on what I read since the stator gounds out my stator is bad. But that would only be a charging problem right?

Your grounded stator readings are inconsistent wit6h the 70 VAC output you claim. But yes if the stator was really shorted then you would not charge.

Could a stator that shorts to ground drain my battery through the R/R?

Thanks

I answered this twice already; this is the third time. If the R/R is good and the upper leg diodes are in place, IT IS NOT POSSIBLE TO DRAIN THE BATTERY FROM THE R/R (+) leg.

You can tie the stator legs into pretty loops , run them through a shreader or solder them into a giant blob attached to the battery . It doesnt matter current can not flow into the the R/R (+) with blocking diodes.

 

[081dbx64]

Ok

Just checked my old R/R. If I put my meter on 2K Ohms the diode setting. Put the red lead on the red wire coming out of the R/R...I get a reading on the yellow and white/red wires with the black lead from my meter of 1 (no change) . But if I put the black lead on the White/Blue wire I get a reading of 1.142.

I assume this means current can flow back through the White/Blue stator wire to stator. Would that not drain my battery, even if my stator is good? Or would my stator have to be grounding out too?

Now my new R/R fails one of the tests and but it does not leak back to the stator. I think I have two bad R/R's here.

 

[posplayr]

Ok

Just checked my old R/R. If I put my meter on 2K Ohms the diode setting. Put the red lead on the red wire coming out of the R/R...I get a reading on the yellow and white/red wires with the black lead from my meter of 1 (no change) . But if I put the black lead on the White/Blue wire I get a reading of 1.142.

I assume this means current can flow back through the White/Blue stator wire to stator. Would that not drain my battery, even if my stator is good? Or would my stator have to be grounding out too?

Now my new R/R fails one of the tests and but it does not leak back to the stator. I think I have two bad R/R's here.

your results do not macth the description in the manual on how the diode test works. When the diode is reverse biased it should be 1.

Also just because there is voltage doesnt mean there is current. Where do you get that assumption? Guessing?

With your battery disconnected there is 12V across the terminals; is there any current flowing? I think NOT

For your skill level you should set your amp meter to 200 mamp range (plugs 6 and 7) and put in series with the R/R (+) as I recommended many posts ago. If you see current flowing into the red (+) R/R then the R/R is bad.

 

[081dbx64]

Did that and there is no amps showing. Question with the R/R hooked up should I be getting any VOLTAGE readings from the wires that go to the stator from the R/R?

I tested them and one of the three gives me 12.5 volts with the bike off and no ignition on.

 

[posplayr]

Did that and there is no amps showing. .

stay focused:

This what you said was draining your battery before?

Question with the R/R hooked up should I be getting any VOLTAGE readings from the wires that go to the stator from the R/R?

I tested them and one of the three gives me 12.5 volts with the bike off and no ignition on.

taking measurements is usually accompanied by an understanding of what you should be measuring. You are guessing now and this is contributing to you floundering.

There is nothing wrong with that voltage, but you had know idea of what it should be

If you want help, stay on track.

You said before you were draining your battery and you measured a current drain on the negative leg of the battery (how much is it???). That current drain is not to the R/R(+). So where is it going to?

ARE YOU SURE YOU HAVE A GOOD BATTERY?

 

[081dbx64]

ok That current drain was when I was using the 10amp setting. Now that I set it to 200m setting I get no current draw. There is no current draw on the 200m setting or any of the other amp settings.

 

[tom203]

Ok

Here goes again with my meter set to 200 OHMS on my stator tests

Between ground and the White/Green .6 OHMS
Between ground and the White/Blue 1 OHMS
Between ground and the Yellow 1 OHMS

Between White/Green and White/Blue .9 OHMS
Between White/Green and Yellow .9 OHMS
Between White/Blue and Yellow .9 Ohms

Progress! and 50% of it makes sense. I'm having problems figuring out the stator wires to ground readings- they don't make sense for getting the 70 volt ac output test. You have the r/r disconnected during the ohm test???? Yeah, you must. Anyways, we haven't lost sight of the current drain problem. For a 14ah battery to drop off overnight means at least .5 amp current flow somewhere. Way way back you said you could either disconnect red wire or yellow wire and battery would stay charged. You meant the yellow wire from the stator right? Just this one and not the w/g or w/b wire? This is a strange problem, so be patient.