Hey Bob, havn't seen you post in a while. You getting much snow in your area?
Now that I quit drooling, I just have to ask...You are running an auto transmission aren't you ????.......Dont see any evidence of that in the pics....Thats good for at least 1-2 tenths.....Just curious....BadBillyB
This is a real good question. The short answer is no.
I don't want to have to have someone help me with my bike. I have been a pit boy for a long time and its a pain. So, there is no outboard starter, no slider and no auto. To get into the 7's is going to take a lot of power and I need to let em dangle a little lower....
I am sure you already know this Bill, but I will explain for those interested in what your talking about.
The four common setups I see are back cut, pro-cut, 2-3 auto and full auto.
First, an auto transmission does not have anything to do with auto shifting the bike (which I do). It means it does not require any engine kill time in order to shift. You need to remember that in many cases like mine, the bike works something like this. Sit on bike and start, push in button, hold throttle wide open, wait for lights, let go of button. Oh yea, pray. The throttle is held wide open from take off till shut down. The engine speed is limited by the ignition. In my case the MC-4. So to shift, the engine has to unload and we do this with a kill timer. Kill times can vary all over the place from bike to bike. Too much is no fun and it feels like you may go over the handle bars. Too little and the bike won't change up.
Backcut is very common. Gears are cut on an angle to keep them locked. Look at stock 1100 GS transmission and you will see this to some degree. This is what I have in motor 1 and it works fine. The down side, like Bad said is the long kill times. These graphs are from my data logger. The two top curves are the crank shaft speed and the output shaft speed in RPM. The center curve is the boost pressure in PSIG. The bottom lines are switch inputs, and the blue one of these is when the air shift fires. Notice how the boost pressure drops when I hit the kill and how long it takes to recover.
A full auto need no kill. A 2-3 auto need kill from 3-4 and 4-5 but not 1-2 and 2-3. Obviously if your killing the motor you loosing time. I sounds great, but there is one little gotcha. If you cut the throttle, expect a few hundred $$$ repair bill. This can be real fun if say you race points on a 1/4 mile track with a full auto and then have to switch up to a 1/8. Or, say the bike gets a little sideways, you can see how low your balls will hang, or risk damage to the parts.
On a GS tranny there are 6 dogs that lock the gears together and 6 slots. Slots are removed and so are dogs. Every other one. This creates a big dead zone. Of course, parts are weaker as an expence. Springs are added along with ramps that help push the gears apart. The ramps can create enough force to bend the forks when you let off the throttle.
(A friends full auto....)
Then we have pro-cut, which is what I am using. Pro cut is a cross between the two. The dogs are angle cut and half of them and the slots are removed. This allows you to greatly reduce the kill time but does not have the side effect of damaging parts when chopping.
A few other things to mention, stock gears do not seem to hold up real well. A stock gear might only be $50 where a billet may run you $200 for the same part. But you don't want this sort of thing to happen....