• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

What's going on in your garage? Part II

  • Thread starter Thread starter lecroy
  • Start date Start date
Looks like he does nice work.

I have seen a few bikes with this fairing. Looks good. I think it would look better with something to break the red up.

How close are you to Beasley?
 
Beasley is a about 15-20 minutes from my house. He makes all kinds of parts. He had 2 race cars in there he was working on. Those mini formula 1 type cars with the busa engines in them. He seems like he keeps things pretty small. It was just him and 1 other employee there when I stopped by. He took me over into his warehouse and showed me a bunch of the different style fairings he makes. Made making the decision easier.

I'll have to think on the paint. I was thinking all red. I'm not sure it it would flow with the body if I added other colors to it.
 
Last edited:
I may need a favor from you at some point.

I was thinking that in the front fender you have a red/black design, the tail is black with a red stripe, the tank is all red, so I was thinking that the inlays may look nice with some black. Paintshop time.
 
The long wait is almost over. Now that the snow is finally starting to fall, the new parts are starting to show up.

This is the spare engine for the drag bike. Same basic engine I am running now but hopefully will carry me into the 7's.
Still waiting on a few parts from Schnitz and I need to decide on what to do for a head. The cases are compliments from Ryan. Big thanks for passing these onto me!! They are stock 1150 cases bored to except the big bore. MTC turbo pistons, APE wrist pins, OE studs, MTC billet basket with Falicon gear, bebuilt R&D transmission by FBG (w/ pro-cut, billet 2nd,3rd and output shaft), Pearson crank with new bearings, 493 rods and Falicon gear.
ryan1.jpg

Matching shift drum, all new forks, rods and every other part......
ryan2.jpg

ryan3.jpg
 
The long wait is almost over. Now that the snow is finally starting to fall, the new parts are starting to show up.

This is the spare engine for the drag bike. Same basic engine I am running now but hopefully will carry me into the 7's.
Still waiting on a few parts from Schnitz and I need to decide on what to do for a head. The cases are compliments from Ryan. Big thanks for passing these onto me!! They are stock 1150 cases bored to except the big bore. MTC turbo pistons, APE wrist pins, OE studs, MTC billet basket with Falicon gear, bebuilt R&D transmission by FBG (w/ pro-cut, billet 2nd,3rd and output shaft), Pearson crank with new bearings, 493 rods and Falicon gear.
ryan1.jpg

Matching shift drum, all new forks, rods and every other part......
ryan2.jpg

ryan3.jpg

Damn, I'm jealous.......A new set of clutch discs can break the bank for me....

Looks cool....good luck on the 7s....:-D

Bob T.
 
Now that I quit drooling, I just have to ask...You are running an auto transmission aren't you ????.......Dont see any evidence of that in the pics....Thats good for at least 1-2 tenths.....Just curious....BadBillyB
 
Hey Bob, havn't seen you post in a while. You getting much snow in your area?


Now that I quit drooling, I just have to ask...You are running an auto transmission aren't you ????.......Dont see any evidence of that in the pics....Thats good for at least 1-2 tenths.....Just curious....BadBillyB

This is a real good question. The short answer is no.

I don't want to have to have someone help me with my bike. I have been a pit boy for a long time and its a pain. So, there is no outboard starter, no slider and no auto. To get into the 7's is going to take a lot of power and I need to let em dangle a little lower....

I am sure you already know this Bill, but I will explain for those interested in what your talking about.

The four common setups I see are back cut, pro-cut, 2-3 auto and full auto.

First, an auto transmission does not have anything to do with auto shifting the bike (which I do). It means it does not require any engine kill time in order to shift. You need to remember that in many cases like mine, the bike works something like this. Sit on bike and start, push in button, hold throttle wide open, wait for lights, let go of button. Oh yea, pray. The throttle is held wide open from take off till shut down. The engine speed is limited by the ignition. In my case the MC-4. So to shift, the engine has to unload and we do this with a kill timer. Kill times can vary all over the place from bike to bike. Too much is no fun and it feels like you may go over the handle bars. Too little and the bike won't change up.

Backcut is very common. Gears are cut on an angle to keep them locked. Look at stock 1100 GS transmission and you will see this to some degree. This is what I have in motor 1 and it works fine. The down side, like Bad said is the long kill times. These graphs are from my data logger. The two top curves are the crank shaft speed and the output shaft speed in RPM. The center curve is the boost pressure in PSIG. The bottom lines are switch inputs, and the blue one of these is when the air shift fires. Notice how the boost pressure drops when I hit the kill and how long it takes to recover.

main2.gif


A full auto need no kill. A 2-3 auto need kill from 3-4 and 4-5 but not 1-2 and 2-3. Obviously if your killing the motor you loosing time. I sounds great, but there is one little gotcha. If you cut the throttle, expect a few hundred $$$ repair bill. This can be real fun if say you race points on a 1/4 mile track with a full auto and then have to switch up to a 1/8. Or, say the bike gets a little sideways, you can see how low your balls will hang, or risk damage to the parts.

On a GS tranny there are 6 dogs that lock the gears together and 6 slots. Slots are removed and so are dogs. Every other one. This creates a big dead zone. Of course, parts are weaker as an expence. Springs are added along with ramps that help push the gears apart. The ramps can create enough force to bend the forks when you let off the throttle.

(A friends full auto....)
fauto1.jpg

fauto2.jpg


Then we have pro-cut, which is what I am using. Pro cut is a cross between the two. The dogs are angle cut and half of them and the slots are removed. This allows you to greatly reduce the kill time but does not have the side effect of damaging parts when chopping.

A few other things to mention, stock gears do not seem to hold up real well. A stock gear might only be $50 where a billet may run you $200 for the same part. But you don't want this sort of thing to happen....
gear2.jpg
 
Do I even want to know what powder coating the cases costs?
 
Hey Bob, havn't seen you post in a while. You getting much snow in your area?

Been hanging out in the "Off-topic" area waiting for spring:-D And no, we haven't had much snow at all.

Almost time to start gettin' ready for '07 though....
Can't wait\\:D/

Bob T.
 
I shot those with acrylic enamel in the garage. The color is code 81 flame red. So it was just the cost of materials and the wife yelling at me for getting paint fumes in the house.
 
Been hanging out in the "Off-topic" area waiting for spring:-D And no, we haven't had much snow at all.

Almost time to start gettin' ready for '07 though....
Can't wait\\:D/

Bob T.

I figured you would be snowed in and wrenching. We got a little snow yesterday but it's melting fast.

New engines modified clutch hub and hat on left, stock on right. Buttons for lock-up and thin down backing plate and extend groves to add extra plate.
mtc_clutch10.jpg
 
First, an auto transmission does not have anything to do with auto shifting the bike (which I do). Kill times can vary all over the place from bike to bike. Obviously if your killing the motor you loosing time. I sounds great, but there is one little gotcha. If you cut the throttle, expect a few hundred $$$ repair bill.
If your using an auto shifter are you shifting each gear at a different RPM???...With a 1-2-3 auto, you would be amazed at how smooth your riding will become. That 2nd gear shift always unloads the tire and chassis. It also allows you to reduce the "kill time" for 4th and 5th. It's worth at least a tenth and a half on any track. I rode mine back to the pits many, many times with this set up and never had any problems. You just have to be aware of how it works, which obviously you do. As far as repairs go, about the worst you could do is bend a fork (which I never did in 5 or 6 years) and there is a mod you can do ("trap door"), that allows you to change forks between rounds by removing, I think, just the oil pan.....Saw a guy do it at a motel parking lot in about 30 minutes back in the day......Anyway, I noticed from the info from your data logger, that the boost fell off more during the 3-4 and 4-5 shift, than it did from the lower gears. Reducing the kill time for the 3-4 and 4-5 shifts by using an auto 1-2-3 , may net you some more MPH ......Good luck getting into the 7's, that was my next goal back in 1991 when I retired........BadBillyB
 
If your using an auto shifter are you shifting each gear at a different RPM???...

No, shifts occur at the same RPM and are controlled from a Dedenbear Command Center running my own software. I used to run an MC-1 with an 2 upgrade and controlled the kill time with the Dedenbear. Before that I was using a Dyna shift counter. Now its all done inside the MC-4. Times have changed. There is a manual I wrote for my software that runs in the Dedenbear that talks about how the shift works if your interested. It was the main reason I wrote new code for it.

I agree with you 100%, killing the ignition is not a good way to make power. It's a simple fact. However, if you want to buy me and auto to try let me know, I am all for it! I could use a sponcer!

I guess we have not been so luckey as we have lost a few of the auto transmissions. Two died last year alone. IMO, if your bracket racing, forget it. I did talk about this with Kevin before having them rebuild the R&D. Kevin was very much against the idea as well and they build enough of them.

I call the trap door mod an actual door that sits in the oil pan on the modified Kaws to trap the oil for the pickup as the bike launches. This is going back and I don't even know if they still do this.

Cutting the webbing out is /was common practice. You still have to pull the two shafts and these come out the side, not under the pan. If I hurt something this bad I take the time to go over it all. If I start at 8:00, I can have the engine out and cases split by noon. Of course, then there is normally a week or two to get the new parts. One way to solve this, spare motor.

You are very right, the boost does not drop off as much at lower gears. I figured your comments about the logger would have been on the the 11.5 second quarter! LOL I have made some other great passes with this bike... LOL

Notice that the pressure is not as high at the lower gears. We are still building up at this point. It is easier to pump your bicycle tires to 30PSI than 120PSI. And it bleads down from 120 to 110 faster than it will from 10 to 0. Same with the turbo.

I don't see getting into the 7's a big hurdle but I guess it's all bench racing at this point... It took me all of last summer to hit the 8's buy I would like to think I know a little more this year. We will see.
 
I'm building a AHMRA racer. For vintage superbike, in the middleweight class. I have a 673cc top end coming for it. If anyone has a spare set of gs750 vm carbs I'd be ever so greatfull.
 
What's going on in my Garage

What's going on in my Garage

I'm getting closer on this. I'm shooting for completion in Spring. Complete teardown. New rings, inspect bottom end rebuild head.Rebuild forks, Powdercoat frame, etc, etc. Mostly it has been a clean up effort. The bike was shot when I bought it, but only had 20K miles on it. It sat outside most of its life. It's been slow going because I am also married, in the middle of house remodeling project and I have dogs that don't ever stop pooping in the yard. I just got the wiring harness sorted out and I installed new drag bars. Hopefully this weekend I can get the harness all tied in and start installing components.
 
more

more

The frame before I got fed up and paid someone else to strip it
 
Back
Top