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For future reference: Napa stud kit part number
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gearhead13
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JEEPRUSTY
Yes it do suck bad.
How come you cannot get metric in a dedicated fastener shop.
Shake your fist and remind em that we been metricated since 1974.
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gearhead13
Originally posted by JEEPRUSTY View PostYes it do suck bad.
How come you cannot get metric in a dedicated fastener shop.
Shake your fist and remind em that we been metricated since 1974.
Maybe the guy I was talking to didnt know what he was talking about Im going to call tomorrow.
Otherwise Im gonna drill and tap to 3/8" coarse
I think I might try Lordco too, thats where I got the metric tap fromLast edited by Guest; 07-12-2011, 11:08 PM.
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gearhead13
Well, I got some 46mm studs from the JB machine shop and some nuts from Fastener Force.
Got them installed last night. Chased all the threads with a tap first. Didnt screw the studs in all the way, with my V&H pipe they fit good, nice and tight
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shwaz
Originally posted by scaylabs View PostA lot of people mentioned a $12.99 exhaust stud kit at Napa that would fit our bikes but I couldn't find a part number while searching or in Napa's website. After spending twenty minutes explaining to the guy what I needed (and hearing at least five times "but sir, the computer says we don't have studs for a 1982 Suzuki GS1100GL") and finally finding it myself on THEIR catalog, I thought I'd post the part number here for those that come looking after me.
Part number BK 6002604. Link.
Includes 10 M8x1.25x62mm studs and 10 nuts.
I measured my bolts at 50mm without the head so this should be about perfect.
to make sure i understand what i'm looking for, 8mm is the bolt's diameter, and 1.25 metric is the thread pitch, yes?
i'll be damned if i'm gonna put any bolts back in there. stud it and loctite ftw!Last edited by Guest; 01-13-2012, 01:06 PM.
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When they bottom out DO NOT FORCE THEM DEEPER!!! Theres oil journals that run right behind the exhaust holes and you do not want to force a bolt in and puncture thru there..its not all that thick there either!!! I would suggest cutting a little 1/8 inch piece of wood dowel and put in each hole and bottom the studs to that. No worries then and the dowel will just burn up.MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550
NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.
I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.
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shwaz
right on. I'm not going to be able to bottom them perfectly anyway (on most of the holes) since i'm retapping and it's a tapered tap... so the studs will probably stop a few mm short of the bottom anyway. really good tip though, and i'm generally not inclined to put too much force onto anything i do with this bike just seems like a bad idea hahahha
good tip with the bmw / subaru parts. i'll see if i can find anything using that
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BMW's old four and six cylinder engines used the same size studs for their exhaust, not sure about the newer stuff. Subaru did as well, and theirs had an allen socket in one end of the stud which could be useful. I am sure there are others, as it's the perfect size for mounting an exhaust manifold. Don't bottom the studs at all, they are far stronger, and they won't tend to get stuck if they are not bottomed out.
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Originally posted by Darin Jordan View PostI checked into this last night. The bolts for my current header (Mac 4-1) are definitely NOT 50mm... In fact... 40mm is too long. 30mm is too short. They appear to be more along the lines of a 35mm (M8-1.25 x 35). The threads in the existing bolts are seated ALMOST all the way into the holes, with only a couple of mm to spare.
I ended up just cleaning up and repainting the current bolts for now, until I can order some new socket-head Stainless ones from McMaster-Carr....1980 GS1000E
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