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Gs550 ez 1982 4-1

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    #16
    Originally posted by Nessism View Post
    Don't saw until you post up some good high resolution images of what's going on. Upload photos to photobucket or similar and then link the IMG code in your post so the photos show up in high resolution.

    The cylinder head for the 550 didn't change over the years other than the intake port size when they went to CV carbs. There is no reason I can think of that the pipe shouldn't fit to the head.
    Later today i will upload very high resolution pictures.

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      #17

      Last edited by Guest; 03-03-2016, 05:07 PM.

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        #18
        At a glance, it looks like you still have gaskets in place in nos. 2 & 3. Don't worry that the flange doesn't bolt up flush to the head. What you need is for all four headers to meet the head in unison, and then torque them up. A gap between the flanges and the head isn't an issue, as long as all four headers have met the gaskets, and then sealed.
        1980 GS550ET

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          #19
          Agree, the flanges won't butt up against the head. You just tighten the screws until you get some crush on the gaskets and then stop tightening. You should use new crush gaskets of course.

          Bummer about busting those header bolts. Most of the time breaking them is avoidable if you take adequate precautions. Oh well, too late now.
          Ed

          To measure is to know.

          Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

          Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

          Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

          KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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            #20
            Originally posted by steveb922 View Post
            At a glance, it looks like you still have gaskets in place in nos. 2 & 3. Don't worry that the flange doesn't bolt up flush to the head. What you need is for all four headers to meet the head in unison, and then torque them up. A gap between the flanges and the head isn't an issue, as long as all four headers have met the gaskets, and then sealed.
            Okay! I didnt know that

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              #21
              Originally posted by Nessism View Post
              Agree, the flanges won't butt up against the head. You just tighten the screws until you get some crush on the gaskets and then stop tightening. You should use new crush gaskets of course.

              Bummer about busting those header bolts. Most of the time breaking them is avoidable if you take adequate precautions. Oh well, too late now.
              Yes i have bought bew gaskets. The header bolts were off when i bought the bike, So three of the standard exhaust headerpipes were in place only with one bolt each. Im guessing this could be why it ran poorly midrange?

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                #22
                Hey guys, I need to remove this part of the engine to get them drilled out, is the english name cylinderhead?.
                I have removed 12 Nuts and 3 screws (two on the sides and one in front"
                But i cant even feel it moving.. Is it any nuts/bolts thats hidden under the valve covers also? Or is it just really stuck?....

                Ive never done this before . Is it something with the chain also?
                Last edited by Guest; 04-11-2016, 04:55 PM.

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                  #23
                  Yep, cylinder head.

                  12 nuts, 3 bolts is what is on my 1980 550, but I'm not sure if yours is the same. You've found the bolt at the front, between cylinders 2 & 3, that has the head facing downward?

                  If you've removed all the fasteners, then tap gently with a rubber mallet, or a metal hammer on to a block of wood. Be careful not to break any fins, and don't be tempted to use an old screwdriver to pry the head up.
                  1980 GS550ET

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                    #24
                    You really need to read the Suzuki manual. It covers disassembly and reassembly of the whole bike.
                    You need to spend some time in that book. You can download it for free on Bikecliffs site.
                    You can't just rip this thing apart without a little research.
                    I had never done an engine rebuild before but did a proper job by following the manual.
                    I like the paint scheme on your bike. I hope to see it all cleaned up.
                    Good luck

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                      #25
                      Im reading the manual now, it has a chapter called "Engine dissasemlby"
                      I guess i need to work those orders to get the cylinder head off?

                      In that case i need to remove the chain tension adjuster and the cam shafts before lifting the cylinder head.

                      And this seems to be must also, http://www.bwringer.com/gs/tdc.html

                      One of the nuts were stuck so the whole pin came loose.. Is the pin threaded in the bottomcase or am i ****ed?

                      Not my pic, but one of these pins https://i.ytimg.com/vi/KW9Umphzo-U/maxresdefault.jpg
                      Last edited by Guest; 04-12-2016, 02:57 AM.

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