Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

GS550e died and won't start again.

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    #16
    i went ahead and just picked up a new battery (only $30) just to eliminate one of the possibilities while i wait for the old one to be tested. but i didn't get to work on the bike today because the battery wasn't available. but tomorrow ill get cracking on what's causing the bike to no respond to anything.
    yes i have a wiring diagram for the bike, so im going to run through the chart and see if anything is wired up wrong as well.

    Comment


      #17
      okay, so now i know the battery's good. i go to try and crank it over, and it still does nothing. no clicks, no anything. the only thing i find after dismounting the head light is a single brown wire, disconnected from everything.
      ive checked the wiring diagram and it shows they is a brown wire coming from the ignition switch but that wire is still connected, the only other brown wire on the front of the bike is for the signal light, but i can't seem to find where it has been disconnected from. this bike is killing me...

      Comment


        #18
        Check your wiring diagram carefully. I seem to recall an extra +12V brown lead in the bucket (of course mine is a 82 550, but I think it was a common thing). Guess that was there so it could be used for auxiliary lighting?

        The loss of multiple circuits makes me think this is perhaps an issue with your ignition switch. So I will ask - now for the third time - have you checked your fuses for voltage with the ignition on? If you've lost voltage there, you only need to concern yourself with the wires going to the ignition switch and back, and the switch itself. Divide and conquer!

        Comment


          #19
          The brown wire goes nowhere. It is extra for a fairing.
          I'd have a good look at the fuse block and the ignition switch.
          Then check continuity on wires througout the harness.
          Do you have a wiring diagram?
          1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
          1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

          Comment


            #20
            Originally posted by mike_of_bbg View Post
            Check your wiring diagram carefully. I seem to recall an extra +12V brown lead in the bucket (of course mine is a 82 550, but I think it was a common thing). Guess that was there so it could be used for auxiliary lighting?

            The loss of multiple circuits makes me think this is perhaps an issue with your ignition switch. So I will ask - now for the third time - have you checked your fuses for voltage with the ignition on? If you've lost voltage there, you only need to concern yourself with the wires going to the ignition switch and back, and the switch itself. Divide and conquer!
            Seems to be an echo in here
            1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
            1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

            Comment


              #21
              i have a wiring diagram. yes. and a voltmeter.
              how do i go about checking the voltage at the fuses and to the switch if everything is pretty much "sealed"? (im a noob w/ electrical but im trying to learn)

              Comment


                #22
                detached the ignition from the bike and pulled off the bottom protective cover. here's how it looks:
                Orange,Red,Brown,Grey. all connections look clean/good and checked the voltemeter to each post (on DC current). All posts [with IGN on] appear to be getting a little over 12V. Solenoid [with IGN on] has over 12DCV.

                Comment


                  #23
                  Now go to the fuse block and make sure you have power at both sides of each fuse.
                  With the key on.
                  1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                  1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                  Comment


                    #24
                    so, am i supposed to pull the fuse and check with the "red" pronge and ground the "black" onto the frame?

                    Comment


                      #25
                      Leave the fuses in, just pull the cover. If there's voltage on one side of the fuse and not the other then the fuse is probably blown. They've been known to do that despite visual inspection to the contrary...

                      Make sure what you're touching on the frame is a good ground. Paint no workee so well as a conductor. A bolt on the engine block would be a better choice, or right to the battery (-) terminal.

                      One would suspect that the big in terminal on the solenoid would have 12V, as that line comes straight from the battery. The little incoming wire would be where you'd want to see some voltage when pushing that start button. That feed goes through the ignition circuit. If both of those have 12V when pushing the start button but the large output terminal does not then you have a solenoid issue. With no clicking and with the lights out too, it's probably not a solenoid issue.

                      Comment


                        #26
                        i pulled the fuse cover off and checked each side of them using the meter. all sides tested at 12DCV or a little more; both with just the ignition on, and with the start button pushed down. im beginning to think there is something screwy with the start button/kill switch; but honestly i have no idea at this point. If the fusebox tested good, battery's good, solenoids good, ignition switch appears good. hmm...

                        Comment


                          #27
                          Headlamp is still out also?

                          Comment


                            #28
                            yes, headlamp and brake lights do not come on either.

                            Comment


                              #29
                              OK, we're good up to the fuse box outlet. Lights and ignition (maybe) are out - it won't crank, anyway. Have you checked for voltage at the orange wires on the coils? Pulled the tank yet? I'm wondering if a harness came loose under there.

                              Comment


                                #30
                                tank has been off. and the bike only will crank if i jump the starter solenoid. the start button does nothing, it wont click the solenoid or anything. im just so stumped on this whole thing ha.

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X