not charging...

[bccap]

My apologies, expecting to see it under the section QUICK LINKS was totally absurd. But that is an example of what I am talking about. A link to your website should be under quick links. I would never have thought of looking under information. Don't get me wrong, I appreciate all the info I've received from you and others, but I have seen Noob's and myself included insulted for not knowing instantly where to look or asking a question. Gawd help the member who doesn't strip and dip. When I was looking for answers to my charging problems I was curtly referred to the stator papers several times. They were what I was using and simply sent me in an endless circle. I finally replaced my rr and smooth sailing from there. The other day I did a search for subscriptions in an effort to make a contribution. No success. There should be a permanent thread on the home forum for exactly that. Would have asked but ?

[cowboyup3371]

My apologies, expecting to see it under the section QUICK LINKS was totally absurd. But that is an example of what I am talking about. A link to your website should be under quick links. I would never have thought of looking under information. Don't get me wrong, I appreciate all the info I've received from you and others, but I have seen Noob's and myself included insulted for not knowing instantly where to look or asking a question. Gawd help the member who doesn't strip and dip. When I was looking for answers to my charging problems I was curtly referred to the stator papers several times. They were what I was using and simply sent me in an endless circle. I finally replaced my rr and smooth sailing from there. The other day I did a search for subscriptions in an effort to make a contribution. No success. There should be a permanent thread on the home forum for exactly that. Would have asked but ?

Basscliff's page is not a formal part of the forum per se just a nicety that he created for all of us to refer to when troubleshooting most of the common stuff. And, if people look closely, they'll find links to the stator papers off of his site (Stator Replacement thread has link).

Everything on this forum, his site, and the main GS Resources is there to find IF people just TAKE THE TIME TO LOOK. Even I'm guilty of not searching fully before asking (look at last night's petcock post) but I also knew it was out there and found it much later.

Why should people expect to get everything without working for it first? It's not a matter of knowing instantly where to look it's a matter of trying first. In fact, even Frank's welcome message says to make use of the search feature as much as possible.

Now, what issue are you having with the subscriptions? Have you tried to select thread tools and then subscribe to this thread?

[BassCliff]

Hi Mr. bccap,

There is a difference between a forum and a website.

The "Quick Links" is a forum feature. If you want links pertinent to motorcycles then click Links on the GSR homepage.

You received your "mega-welcome" in THIS THREAD right after you joined. Did you read it? Did you click on the links? Did you bookmark it? Did you bookmark my website?

My website is totally separate from The GS Resources, not affiliated in any way. I maintain my site just because I love these old bikes and I love helping new owners. The administrator here has been kind enough to include a link or two to my website for convenience. But we can't re-invent the wheel every time a new member comes along. The documentation and learning resources are in place. We can't do much more than show others where they are and encourage them to study up on these classic bikes. Sure, the forum is for questions. But if the questions have already been answered in a PDF file, why should someone waste time typing it up again? We are trying to save time for everyone, i.e. you don't have to wait for an answer and I don't have to re-type pages of instructions, over and over, again and again.

When I got my bike I read every page of the GS Resources, I clicked on every link, I researched, I Googled, I bought a manual and used it, I did my homework, then I started working on my bike. When I had a question the members here either gave me the information I needed or pointed me toward documentation that would help me understand the concepts and procedures necessary to troubleshoot and repair. It's usually important to know the "why it works" so that you can figure out the "how to fix it".

The other day I did a search for subscriptions in an effort to make a contribution. No success. There should be a permanent thread on the home forum for exactly that. Would have asked but ?

On the GSR Homepage there is a "Support the site" link in the left margin. At the top of the "GS Motorcycle Discussion Area" section there is a sticky for a thread entitled "Please help support this site".

Will there be anything else?


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[1_v8_merc]

To quote from the movie Extract....."Its so simple guys....it's just so simple!"

[tom203]

To quote from the movie Extract....."Its so simple guys....it's just so simple!"

It was all simple till Basscliff started explaining "forum" , "website", "quick links" and I reached for the comfort of a beer. Good thing that I stumbled on Basscliff's site before I made it here or I would still be interpreting my Clymer's manual.

[Redman]

...
....

My meter says anywhere from 12.65 to 12.88 while shes running-about the same as when the battery is out of the bike.
Now, keep in mind I wasnt revving to high, maybe about 3k rpm.

...
... T

T,

We could talk about what voltage is good.

But lets also say that the charging system should make the voltage go higer at mid rpm than it is at idle or at bike not running.
And, by what you say, it is not, so, your charging system is not working.

At mid rpms like, 4K or so, the voltage should go up to over 14 volts (but not high 14s). BUt you can probably get by at mid to high 13s (many have for years and years).

Dave

.

[t-money]

Hi Again.

Okay..
First off...
I did buy the manual..even before I got the bike home.
I did do google searches for hours...before I got the bike.
I changed the starter.fixed a non functioning turn signal..and brake light switch.
Its funny, the manual doesnt cover 30 + years of crust/corrosion etc...the manual is great if your bike is like new..(Or for the specs)..
Trouble shooting can be tricky on these old machines..so I call on the experts.

Anyway, I read alot of info on Cliffs site..and its quite awesome actually.I even bookmarked it as I'm sure I will be using as a refernce as long as I own the bike.


About the charging system:

In the "Cliffnotes"(lol) for testing stator..it mentions "stock suzuki" multi colored wires to test when checking the stator.

Now, my bike is an 80 gs1000gl, so maybe thats why, but the colors are not the same as mentioned.

I'll attach a photo, so maybe it'l be easier to see.



What I have , appears to be 2 yellows, a green/white and 2 White/blues.
The 2 lower wires (1 yellow and 1 white blue) were just hanging, not connected to anything.

I did the continuity test between what I "guessed" would have been the three wires (ref cliffnotes), and I was reading about .7-.9 on the meter.

On a side note..maybe related:The rubbery connector cover/sheathing apprerd "burnt" on the white/red wire (toward the top) ..so I cleaned it up as the connection was corroded a bit.It still gets pretty hot while the bike is running.
Still NO CHARGING while shes running.(About 12.5V, regardless of how much throttle I give her)


Please help.
Thanks
T

[cowboyup3371]

Run the rest of the stator paper tests. I'd be willing to bet you probably will have a shot stator.

[tom203]

You might not have a stock stator- someone might have changed it , so ignore colors and just follow the three wires coming from stator (most likely coming up thru starter cavity). Mark them as such and test for about .9 ohm between them. If one of the stator wires was disconnected, you'd only get about 12.5 volts -this is what the on/off headlight switch did .

[BassCliff]

Hi,

There's no telling what the previous owners have done to the wiring on your bike. You'll have to trace them yourself to be certain where they originate and make sure they are connected properly.

You have only three stator wires (output wires) that should connect directly to the three input wires of the regulator/rectifier (whatever color they are). From Phase B of the Stator Papers Fault Finding Chart:

On the GS models, Suzuki used different colours for the three output-wires of the stator. They are the only manufacturer doing this.The only conscious reason for this would be a desire to cause confusion, because the output of all the three wires is the same. The colours on the wires from the stator are : Yellow, White/blue and White/green. On the RR (input) we're talking : Yellow, White/blue and White/red. JUST THINK THEM ALL BEING YELLOW, and then go on with the checks below.

Your bike likely has a loop of wire running up to a non-existant headlight switch. This loop is designed to disable one leg of the stator when the headlight is turned off. That's why the white/green wire comes back as a white/red wire to connect to the r/r unit. This is covered in the regulator/rectifier replacement guide on my website. These days we bypass that loop of wire and connect the stator outputs directly to the r/r inputs thusly:



The above is actually a diagram for an r/r upgrade using a Honda regulator (a Shindengen FH-012 or similar). That's why you see a 6th wire, or "sense" wire used to help keep the regulator output constant.

The stator output wires exit the lower engine case via the starter cover. That brittle sheath should have only three wires in it. These three wires get connected directly to the input wires of the r/r unit.

Connect the ground wire from the r/r unit directly to the negative terminal of the battery. A lot of voltage can be lost between the r/r output (red wire) and the (+) terminal of the battery as it makes its way through the fusebox, and possibly connected to the starter solenoid, and finally on to the positive terminal of the battery. Every connection must be clean and corrosion free.

For more information see:

GS Charging System Health+Quick Test

The Stator Papers

More On The Stator Papers

Cleaning Your Wiring Harness

Fusebox Cleanup

Stator Test

Stator Replacement

Regulator/Rectifier Replacement


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[t-money]

Thanx..
Well did all tests..according to paper..it seems im only getting 40 volts ac..while shes running.all 3 measurments are the same thoigh.
Do they ' wear out" slowly?paper says shld be 60 v min..but equal.

Thanks..

[BassCliff]

Hi,

If the electrical system has lots of corrosion and resistance the r/r and stator run hot. As the insulation on the stator windings melt and short out, the AC output diminishes.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[t-money]

Yeah..even though all 3 meaure the same. 0.9 resistance test..and 40v ac test..the green/white wire always gets hot..regardless of which rr wire i connect it to.
So would you suppose i replace stator before rr?


Thanks

[t-money]

O well.Just bit it and ordered a new stator and R/R.

Thanks

[BassCliff]

Hi,

That's what I've done in the past, replaced both components at the same time. Be sure to clean ALL of your electrical connections, from fuse box to blinker stalks, from headlight bucket to taillight assembly, in order to cut down on the heat caused by 30 years of corrosion. I burned through a couple of stators because I didn't do a complete job when cleaning my wiring harness.

Let's see if I can find one of my toasty stators...





Yep, I ruined two stators because I thought I had cleaned all the connections "good enough". It was an expensive lesson. I recommend the Rick's stator over the Electrosport and RM Stator parts.

The Rick's Electrics stator has the good sheathing that will not turn brittle, has bullet connectors already soldered (which I cut off anyway), AND includes the rubber grommet seal for the stator cover. Plus, the wires are plenty long enough. Sometimes the others can be too short.




Then try to find a good used Shindengen r/r unit (like from a Honda) from Ebay. The $100 r/r units sold by Electrosport and others, that are similar to the stock parts, are not any more robust than the original Suzuki parts.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff