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Headlight and turn signals on same circuit
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Headlight and turn signals on same circuit
I was doing some maintenance today and discovered the Headlight and turn signals are on the headlight circuit. I can remove the turn signal fuse without anything going out. I have had the fuse blow several times after riding in the rain, but had no idea that it was an overload from running two circuits on one fuse. I had converted to two flasher relays when the turn signal module went out and abandoned the rest of the module wiring, so the problem doesn't seem to be there. I had also changed to a C model detente type switch. Put the original switch back in and the problem remains. The plug for the switch harness on the frame side shows no external signs of overheating and melting wires together. I have opened wiring bundles to inspect the individual wires and I can't find where the circuit got crossed. Has anyone seen this before or know of a common problem area?http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...ine=1440711157'78 GS1000E, Dyna-S ignition, Dyna Green Coils, K&N pods, Delkevic SS 4-1 exhaust, Dynojet Stage 3 jet kit, Russell SS Brake Lines, Progressive suspension, Compu-Fire series Regulator 55402 and Advmonster cree LED headlight conversion.Tags: None
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Originally posted by OldVet66 View PostI was doing some maintenance today and discovered the Headlight and turn signals are on the headlight circuit. I can remove the turn signal fuse without anything going out.
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I guess I am getting upset about nothing then. I had read posts saying the headlight was on one fuse and turn signals on another and I never checked the brake light with the fuse marked turn signals, out of the circuit. I spent some quality tail chasing time even though I saw the switch diagram and knew it shared a common power wire. I'll blame it on the heat. Now that I have the original switch back in the circuit, where is the best place to tap into the harness to install those nifty relays to get the signals to latch. It would be really cool if you could also give me the color codes of the wires involved so I don't get into outer space again. It seems the orange green wire would be a good one to use to pick up the relays.http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...ine=1440711157'78 GS1000E, Dyna-S ignition, Dyna Green Coils, K&N pods, Delkevic SS 4-1 exhaust, Dynojet Stage 3 jet kit, Russell SS Brake Lines, Progressive suspension, Compu-Fire series Regulator 55402 and Advmonster cree LED headlight conversion.
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Forum LongTimerBard Award Winner
GSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter- Jul 2005
- 15152
- Marysville, Michigan
Originally posted by OldVet66 View PostNow that I have the original switch back in the circuit, where is the best place to tap into the harness to install those nifty relays to get the signals to latch. It would be really cool if you could also give me the color codes of the wires involved so I don't get into outer space again. It seems the orange green wire would be a good one to use to pick up the relays.
Take your power from the auxiliary fuse or a fused wire directly off the battery.
Are you planning on using Normk's diode and relay substitute with your original switch?
EDIT....
Originally posted by OldVet66 View PostIt would be really cool if you could also give me the color codes of the wires involved so I don't get into outer space again. .Last edited by rustybronco; 07-05-2012, 11:32 AM.
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I was planning on using the three relays that you showed in a diagram you had posted, I don't care for the self canceling feature, but I want the manual cancel switch to work.http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...ine=1440711157'78 GS1000E, Dyna-S ignition, Dyna Green Coils, K&N pods, Delkevic SS 4-1 exhaust, Dynojet Stage 3 jet kit, Russell SS Brake Lines, Progressive suspension, Compu-Fire series Regulator 55402 and Advmonster cree LED headlight conversion.
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Here's Norm's substitute. Note that the indicator in the gauge cluster won't light up on His replacement. http://thegsresources.com/_forum/sho...28&postcount=6
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I applied the color codes to the diagram you had posted a while back. If I have this right, I'll be removing my two flashers and using the black/blue stripe, and light green/black stripe wires to close the left and right DPST N.O. relays respectively to latch the signals, the black and light green wires to feed from the flasher to the left and right signals respectively, and the thin brown yellow wire to open the SPST N.C. relay to cancel the signals. These were the wires that originally went to the module plugs. Please correct me if I'm on the wrong track. I can do this on my Son's 850G that has the same failed module (the bike is waiting a complete first maintenance, and Son's monetary input for parts) before I do my every day rider.Last edited by OldVet66; 07-06-2012, 06:45 AM.http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...ine=1440711157'78 GS1000E, Dyna-S ignition, Dyna Green Coils, K&N pods, Delkevic SS 4-1 exhaust, Dynojet Stage 3 jet kit, Russell SS Brake Lines, Progressive suspension, Compu-Fire series Regulator 55402 and Advmonster cree LED headlight conversion.
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Forum LongTimerBard Award Winner
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Originally posted by OldVet66 View PostI applied the color codes to the diagram you had posted a while back. If I have this right, I'll be removing my two flashers and using the black/blue stripe, and light green/black stripe wires to close the left and right DPST N.O. relays respectively to latch the signals,
the black and light green wires to feed from the flasher to the left and right signals respectively,
and the thin brown/yellow wire to open the SPST N.C. relay to cancel the signals.
Don't forget to fuse it just in case.
One more thing, the indicator on this doesn't work with the single turn signal indicator in the gauge cluster either. I'll scribble up something this weekend so it will.Last edited by rustybronco; 07-06-2012, 08:39 AM.
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