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Points gap nonexistant?
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Points gap nonexistant?
So, in my first attempt to set the points gap after rebuilding the motor I'm finding that they never appear to open when I rotate the crank. The manual says to set it at TDC for 1/4 and set the gap then. But the gap appears fully closed at that point. Even when I rotate it, I'm not seeing any movement. My points looks similar to those below. What the hell am I doing wrong?
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GSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter- Jul 2005
- 15152
- Marysville, Michigan
Do you see those two little posts right next to the little slot in each set of points? Slightly loosen the two screws holding 'a' set of points, stick a screwdriver between the two pins and into the slot and rotate it until you get the proper gap. Lock down the screws. Rinse, wash and repeat for the other set of points.
Originally posted by TheDuke View PostThe manual says to set it at TDC for 1/4 and set the gap then.
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TheDuke
Originally posted by rustybronco View PostDo you see those two little posts right next to the little slot in each set of points? Slightly loosen the two screws holding 'a' set of points, stick a screwdriver between the two pins and into the slot and rotate it until you get the proper gap. Lock down the screws. Rinse, wash and repeat for the other set of points.
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It's also possible to time the bike with a light.
Set the crank to the F mark, move the plate until the light just starts to glow and your in.
I had to do this once under tough circumstances on my '76 Honda 550 four.1981 GS650G , all the bike you need
1980 GS1000G Power corrupts, and absolute power corrupts absolutely
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Also note that the points open and close as the part that rides on the crank end rides up on a slight lobe built into it.
If you look at the crank youll see the slightly lobed area and what I do is get the part of the point that rides on the crank as close to the very top of that lobe as I can and then check the timing mark.
Now that its at the top of the lobe AND the timing marks right, I set the gaps I also make a sharpy line on the big 19MM nut once I find the very center of that lobe so next time all I gotta do is line up the mark with the plastic part on the points and set the gaps again.
Sounds complicated but it isnt.MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550
NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.
I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.
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TheDuke
Originally posted by chuck hahn View PostNow that its at the top of the lobe AND the timing marks right, I set the gaps I also make a sharpy line on the big 19MM nut once I find the very center of that lobe so next time all I gotta do is line up the mark with the plastic part on the points and set the gaps again.
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Originally posted by TheDuke View PostI replaced the points but not the condensers. Should I go ahead and replace those too?"Men will never be free until Mark learns to do The Twist."
-Denis D'shaker
79 GS750N
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1_v8_merc
Replace the condensors, they are much more likely to fail without warning,especially if they are old.
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Bad condensers can make weird things happen, like it might run, and sound ok, but you put it in gear, and it can't pull a load.
I got a free GS850G once, because the PO said it was blown. It had 2 extra quarts of oil in it, and a blown condenser. It was a good bike, until my nephew wrecked it. OEM condensers and points cost almost as much as a Dyna electronic ignition. There are less expensive aftermarket parts out there, but I bought the expensive OEM. Didn't know the options.sigpic Too old, too many bikes, too many cars, too many things
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FLHGSRay
Or just spring for a new Dyna ignition, throw the points and condensers in the trash, and don't look back.
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