1982 gs650g problem

[LowellGS]

Well i picked up a free
1982 gs 650g with 16k miles on it

It was sitting for about 9 years. It was registered last in 1995..ouch

But anyways.

This is my 1st biked planned on learned how to ride with it and learning how to tinker.

So i did normal tune-up stuff i would do on a car.
Oil,oil filter,air filter, spark plugs, boots, and i had the carbs cleaned.


I have spark and compression and air. but the fuel doesn't seem to get into the head at all?

Now this is a budget build with the key being keeping money in my pocket. Well because I don't have enough to go off buying stuff when i still have to get my license and that costs like 400 and i need new tires which is like 300 at least for cheap ones.

So here's the issue. I did some looking around and to be honest i just don't get what people are saying? I don't know the language i guess so its confusing when people are saying stuff to do.

So what is it doing?
Its cranking. and it turns over when i put a little ether into the air box, then putters off. It only stays on for 2-3 seconds, pretty much just till the ether burns off.

Fuel lines are getting fuel. bowls have fuel in them(enough to pour on myself). and i noticed some on the interior of my boots.

Since the beginning i always had a huge problem getting my carbs in and out. and i can never get my carbs in all the way on the boots. Like not all the way to the little indent lip thing. But i am getting compression.

Should i just rip out the carbs and clean them again? or maybe something else could be the problem.


Thanks so much for your help and i hope i get to ride this season.



Also whats with the threads? the 1st post is on the last page? weird lol

[LowellGS]

Pretty much looking to get it running then spend money on it so i know its actually worth it.

[kparkfan]

The valves could probably use adjusting.

[LowellGS]

The valves could probably use adjusting.

Would that keep it from running though? or just running right?

I'm definitely going to do it, but i really wanna get it running and then do the other stuff. I just really need a milestone because i'm about to put it in the trash lol.. very frustrated.

[spchips]

Ideas

#1 - It won't run unless the airbox is on and the filter is in place, and the cover is on. The restriction is significant and without it the bike cannot make the right fuel mixture.

#2 - Make sure there is gas in all the bowls.

#3 - Often when carbs are cleaned, there is residue left behind that causes the fuel valve in the carb to stick open or closed. Give them a good shake or tap with the back of a screwdriver. After gas has run through this goes away.

[waterman]

Well i picked up a free
1982 gs 650g with 16k miles on it

It was sitting for about 9 years. It was registered last in 1995..ouch

But anyways.

This is my 1st biked planned on learned how to ride with it and learning how to tinker.

So i did normal tune-up stuff i would do on a car.
Oil,oil filter,air filter, spark plugs, boots, and i had the carbs cleaned.


I have spark and compression and air. but the fuel doesn't seem to get into the head at all?

Now this is a budget build with the key being keeping money in my pocket. Well because I don't have enough to go off buying stuff when i still have to get my license and that costs like 400 and i need new tires which is like 300 at least for cheap ones.

So here's the issue. I did some looking around and to be honest i just don't get what people are saying? I don't know the language i guess so its confusing when people are saying stuff to do.

So what is it doing?
Its cranking. and it turns over when i put a little ether into the air box, then putters off. It only stays on for 2-3 seconds, pretty much just till the ether burns off.

Fuel lines are getting fuel. bowls have fuel in them(enough to pour on myself). and i noticed some on the interior of my boots.

Since the beginning i always had a huge problem getting my carbs in and out. and i can never get my carbs in all the way on the boots. Like not all the way to the little indent lip thing. But i am getting compression.

Should i just rip out the carbs and clean them again? or maybe something else could be the problem.


Thanks so much for your help and i hope i get to ride this season.



Also whats with the threads? the 1st post is on the last page? weird lol

First off Welcome to the forum, we are here to help.

You will really need to get the carbs fully seated in the rubber boots that connect to the engine head, otherwise it will be too lean and not start or run. I know they are a pain but try spraying a little silicone lubricant on boots (or WD40), they will slide in better. I find it easiest to push in and the wiggle them up and down to get them to seat right.

You state you have clean carbs, did you soak carb parts in cleaner or simply spray with carb cleaner? It can't be stressed enough that thoroughly disassembled and dipped carbs rebuilt using new rubber orings is mandatory for any bike that has sat unused for very long.

One thing worth considering is that motorcycles are usually neglected because they don't run well. You may have to solve whatever problems the motorcycle had previously in order to make it run correctly now. Hopefully, the bike is stock and the previous owner has not made your task more complicated by poor repairs.

[LowellGS]

First off Welcome to the forum, we are here to help.

You will really need to get the carbs fully seated in the rubber boots that connect to the engine head, otherwise it will be too lean and not start or run. I know they are a pain but try spraying a little silicone lubricant on boots (or WD40), they will slide in better. I find it easiest to push in and the wiggle them up and down to get them to seat right.

You state you have clean carbs, did you soak carb parts in cleaner or simply spray with carb cleaner? It can't be stressed enough that thoroughly disassembled and dipped carbs rebuilt using new rubber orings is mandatory for any bike that has sat unused for very long.

One thing worth considering is that motorcycles are usually neglected because they don't run well. You may have to solve whatever problems the motorcycle had previously in order to make it run correctly now. Hopefully, the bike is stock and the previous owner has not made your task more complicated by poor repairs.

Carbs were soaked. and it definitely is completely stock. When i put them back on. hopefully it will be the last time for a little bit ill be sure to put them on all the way to the indent

#1 - It won't run unless the airbox is on and the filter is in place, and the cover is on. The restriction is significant and without it the bike cannot make the right fuel mixture.

#2 - Make sure there is gas in all the bowls.

#3 - Often when carbs are cleaned, there is residue left behind that causes the fuel valve in the carb to stick open or closed. Give them a good shake or tap with the back of a screwdriver. After gas has run through this goes away.

Yea i just read that about the airbox in another thread here.. If its that simple i need a dopeslap. Could i just spray some ether into the filter close it up and then start it?

#2 how do i do that? if i put the carbs back in the bike and hook up the tank i can't unscrew the boals?

[Steve]

First of all, PUT THE ETHER AWAY.

Better yet, THROW THE ETHER AWAY.

You say you dipped the carbs. Sorry, but I just have to ask ... in what and for how long?
The overwhelming majority of us use Berryman's Carb Cleaner Dip in the gallon-size can. Gunk also makes an acceptable dip and I am sure there are others, too. Since your bike has been neglected for quite a while, a full day in the dip is called for, which is far more than the 15-30 minutes the instructions call for.

Did you completely disassemble the carbs and put in all new o-rings?
If you didn't, you really should. You can get a new set of o-rings from forum member Robert Barr at cycleorings.com. It's about $15 for the o-rings, and I heartily recommend also getting the intake o-rings and stainless screws for the intake boots. Don't forget to splurge, spend the extra penny, get the o-rings for the drain screws, too.

That will take care of fuel delivery to the engine. Now let's get the engine ready for that fuel.

ADJUST THE VALVES.


Before you get the engine running right, why not order the tires?

What are you considering "cheap" tires and why do they cost so much?
I get my tires from Tires Unlimited. They are not the cheapest online source, but they are local for me, so I just drive 20 minutes to get there, and pick them up. A set of Shinko 712 tires in the sizes for your bike are about $48 for the front and $63 for the rear. That's a LOT less than $300, even including shipping. Kenda Challengers are 43f/53r. Avon AM26 Roadriders are 85f/104r. Even the Pirelli Sport Demons (a more-expensive sport tire) are 120f/140r.

To change the order of your posts, click on the User CP link in the upper left corner of the page. In the "Settings and Options" section, click on "Edit Options". Scroll down to the "Thread Display Options", change the display options to "Linear - oldest first". While you are right there, go to the next option and change it to "Show 40 Posts Per Page" and you will not have to waste time waiting for new pages to show on longer threads. Don't forget to save your changes as you leave the page.

.

[LowellGS]

I didin't clean them.. My buddies father did.. He said he dipped them overnight..

I got all the o rings and gaskets replaced that i could..

and damn those tires are cheap lol..
I'm just waiting on the tires incase i never get it running you know.



About the valves.. I guess I'm just nervous doing that.. Thats just a whole other animal to me..
Like i know how to change plugs and doing an oil change.. but valves ehh lol.


I got some things to do tomorrow.. but i think im going to do the carbs over again so i know for sure they were done right.. I'm also going to order some new boots.both sides of the carbs....do i need shims to do the vavles? I usually order from Bike bandit.. would they have shims for my bike?

[kparkfan]

The valves are actually really easy. E-mail steve and he will send you a valve spread sheet that makes it a whole lot easier.

[indyjoel]

Hi welcome.

I had the exact same issue and can offer my two cents... (hey I'm cheap)

1. order new orings from our friend on the list
2. order new intake boots on the engine side (makes putting carbs on and off again a breeze) trust me and the five stiches in my leg when the bike fell on me
3. clean and then clean the carbs again (it is a pain but needs to be done) by removing all rubber bits and dipping them in some form of solution. In AUS I use Metholyated spirits and Petrol as we cant buy carb dip.
4. install ALL new orings in the carbs, even in the little tubes that join them
5. bench sync the cabs
5a. adjust the air screws and idle screw as close as possible
5b. make sure their is a good seal with the air box boots and also the intake boots.
6. a fresh battery to use to crank the bike once you put the carbs on
7. valves ( I am guilty of not having done them yet)
8. get ready to adjust the idle screw and air screew once the bike starts again
9. get/borrow/bet a carb sync tool to adjust the carbs.

You can find all this infromation on this site and also our friends site Mr Basscliff.

ENJOY!!!!

Forgot to mention, it took me a couple of months to learn this the hard way.

[Steve]

I didin't clean them.. My buddies father did.. He said he dipped them overnight..

I got all the o rings and gaskets replaced that i could..

How much do you trust your buddy's father to have done it right? Overnight might have been enough, but they should still have ALL the o-rings replaced. Cheap enough for new ones through cycleorings.com.

and damn those tires are cheap lol..
I'm just waiting on the tires incase i never get it running you know.

Order the tires. You will have your bike running not long after they get there.

About the valves.. I guess I'm just nervous doing that.. Thats just a whole other animal to me..
Like i know how to change plugs and doing an oil change.. but valves ehh lol.

If you can read and know which end of the screwdriver to pound on, you will be fine. ANY of the service manuals have good procedures, BassCliff has a tutorial on his website that shows great pictures. Kparkfan mentioned e-mailing me with a request for my spreadsheet. Do it, it helps.

...do i need shims to do the vavles? I usually order from Bike bandit.. would they have shims for my bike?

Yes, you need shims to adjust your valves, and will likely need a valve cover gasket, too. BikeBandit has both of them, but Z1 has far better prices and quicker shipping. Before you order any shims, you need to see what you have in there and what you will need. There is no way to guess, you will have to open up the top of your engine, measure the clearances, pull the shims, ONE AT A TIME, see what's in there. My spreadsheet will help you record all this and make sense of it all.


Lastly, where are you? There is a decent chance that one of us is close enough to stop by and help you. It helps if you go to the User CP section, go to "Your Profile" and "Edit Your Details", then add your location. No need for an actuall address, just a general area will do. While you are in the User CP area, also go to "Settings & Options" and "Edit Signature", generate a short sig to show what bike you have. I know you mentioned it in your original post, this will make it so you don't have to mention it every time you ask a question.

.

[LowellGS]

Done and Done..

Ill definitely check out Z1 i like to spread my money around anyways. Do i need any special tools to measure these things? or just a tape measure?


also.. how do i know if i have a GLZ or a GZ .. I'm on the site now and not sure which.

Another.. should i just buy a whole new rebuild kit? I can't seem to find any boots on there either.

I need to make a list..
Boots on both sides
4 carb kits?
tires

[kparkfan]

To measure them you will need calipers.

[LowellGS]

To measure them you will need calipers.

Damn more money to spend.o well. I figure if I save 75 on each tire I can spend it somewhere else