GS1000G mods- big bore and fuel injection

[GS1000G Shopper]

I wonder if they still have the specs? Seems like they'd keep the details in case someone else (like me ) needed one.

I saw a proper # OEM one on eBay for around $50.

[mrl1000l]

The OEM 8030 fiber gasket is $54 and they will make them to any spec you request at no extra charge. My sales order number was 290208. I had them make mine with 74mm fire rings as a perfect fit for my bore, which on your 73.5 bore will lower your CR a smidgen. Speaking of which, I know CR was an issue you were worried about early on in this build, I think you can also specify a thicker fiber if you need to. Stock 8030 is .043", ask them what thicknesses are available if that is still a concern of yours.

[GS1000G Shopper]

Good info, thanks a lot.

[GS1000G Shopper]

The wheels arrived and I was able to press-fit one after grinding down the OEM tooth. I took some pics and will post them here later, the camera battery died. The RPM in Tuner Studio seems to be jumping around a lot. The air gap is larger than expected at .055 (was aiming for .035), so I will have to tweak the pickup a little.

It still did not start, but I got a loud backfire. I need to run the trigger wheel program, which takes some time but will give me a graphic readout of what the MS is seeing from the wheel.

[GS1000G Shopper]

Here are the wheel pics. The first few are of the one with the notch for the OEM tooth. It was an easier fit than I thought it might have been. The last couple are the other wheel that pressed on to the advance shaft. Also fairly easy to do, but of course alignment is critical- though this can be adjusted via the MS trigger wheel settings.









I reloaded the trigger sensor program and the square waves are all over the map for uniformity- some are thick, others thin. I tried both wheels, and also adjusted the VR sensor gap down to .026. That seemed to help some, but you can't output the trigger sensor chart, and I can't easily do screencaps on my laptop.

I've redrawn the wheel with the following changes:
Diameter increased from 1.15 to 1.17".
Outer diameter circle decreased to .75".

This makes the teeth deeper.

I also designed a 12-1 wheel, which should more closely mimic the original tooth.


UPDATE
Since I have 3 wheels and a sawzall, I cut the teeth deeper on one of the wheels with the smooth bore.
Here's a screencap of the modified 24-2 wheel, it is getting more uniform, but I think a 12-1 is the best solution here.

[gmansyz]

Backifire

My thoughts.
First, I think the trigger wheel may be too small. You could just get a GSXR one which may also be a 24-2 tooth unit. $25 from Ebay.
Second, you may be missing a cam position sensor. As these systems utilize when and send a signal during the missing tooth section on the main trigger. Not sure if the MegaS system uses this or not. But you could graft a newer, 2005+ GSXR 1000 system onto the GS for less than $500.
Now, I have also thought about letting you borrow my GPZ1100 fuel pump to test but it is going to be in storage for the next three to four months. Same for the 750 Turbo pump.
Anyway, thanks for listening.
Laters
G

[GS1000G Shopper]

There is no question it is small. I think it is likely too small for the 24-2 application, and the 12-1 may be just right (Goldilocks GS ).

The cam sensor is optional, from what I've read it looks like this is used mostly for sequential injection, which I am not using.

If I had $500 I'd put it towards the shiny black 1-owner GS1000 in Wisconsin. This is a low-budget operation, as is everything I do.

I'm OK for the fuel pump as far as I know. It may be the controller needs reset. I'm not working on that right now or the oil leak, just want to get it to start once so I know I'm in the ballpark on timing.

[GS1000G Shopper]

Heard back from Cometic:
For your application, the 1000 and 1100 will use the same gasket with our design.


Based on the prior info here, I have questions about that. I'm just going to use an OEM gasket.

[GS1000G Shopper]

Any opinions on the Cometic copper head gasket? The OEM ones on eBay are all sold, but there is a Cometic for under $60 that is supposed to replace the 1100G gasket by part #. From what I've read, the fiber/steel gaskets are best for stock applications.

[Steve]

..., and I can't easily do screencaps on my laptop.

You have a "Print Screen" button? Might be "prt sc" or something similar, but I have not seen a keyboard yet that did not have it.

When the screen is showing what you want, press the "Print Screen" button.
Open up "Paint". Might be "MS Paint", "Paint Brush" or some other variant, depending on your version of Windoze.
In the blank screen press CTL+V to paste your screen shot.
Drag the sides of the picture to match the screen shot, save it, upload to PhotoBucket (or wherever), then post the link.

.

[GS1000G Shopper]

Computers are a juggling act here. I had to replace the keyboard on that laptop (it's old, so it is relegated to garage duty), and ever since then some of the functions such as the shift-ctl & top row keys (i.e. F1, PS, etc) do not work. I downloaded a program to do screen caps and that is how I got the picture I posted in post #276.

[GS1000G Shopper]

I tried a used dual pickup with the 12-1 wheel and wired it using the green wire for ground and the blue wire for +. On the 1000, the dual pickups are not wired as two pickups, they have a common red wire, so only 2 wires go back to the ignitor. Blue is + for 1/4 and green is + for 2/4.

I got a terrible readout with the tachref program, really narrow and then really wide pattern. I think the best thing to try is a hall effect sensor, the OEM pickups just don't seem to work properly with the Microsquirt.

On the plus side, I found an OEM head gasket for the 1100G for less than $60 shipped.

[coombehouse]

The OEM pickups work fine. You just need to use only one for microsquirt & let the programming do the rest. As I have said before & posted a picture to help you. It works fine for me. Nick

[GS1000G Shopper]

Well it doesn't work for me.

I've tried using both sensors via the "dual ignition" setup with the OEM single tooth.

Didn't work.

Just one sensor rewired.

Didn't work.

One sensor rewired with grounded sleeve, and custom 24-2 and 12-1 wheels.

Didn't work.

Now with two sensors & OEM wiring with the 12-1 wheel.

Still didn't work.

I forgot to add I couldn't trigger the $%^&* thing off the coil either. If I could have, I wouldn't have wasted so much time & money on this garbage.

I guess the box itself needs to be checked out, not sure who does that. Support for this system is non-existent on the second forum I joined, I'll have to try the first place again.

[coombehouse]

How frustrating! Nothing else I can say. You could always try contacting Arttu who posted a while back. He has been through all of this with great success & will sell you a functioning trigger set up I expect for very little money. Nick