Jdub goes there 1981 650e rebuild

[jdub6092]

The GS650E side covers are much flimsier than the side covers on most other GS models. I dunno why, but they are.

Very prone to breaking. Mke sure you have soft grommets, that helps. Old hardened rubber is much more likely to cause a breakage.

Not sure if I've seen any side covers on ebay that don't have the long peg broken and often a chunk of ABS taken out where it was attached.

I replaced most grommets on the bike including the side cover ones. Put a little lube on them and they are snug, but come off with little effort. The key I think is to pull straight out and evenly on both sides.

[Griffin]

The GS650E side covers are much flimsier than the side covers on most other GS models. I dunno why, but they are.

Very prone to breaking. Mke sure you have soft grommets, that helps. Old hardened rubber is much more likely to cause a breakage.

[jdub6092]

Almost as inevitable as death, taxes and GS stock regulators failing, are broken side cover studs on many bike brands.

I had a broken stud on the left side cover with a few spider cracks that appeared on the outside, but not too bad and only visible at close range.

There are dozens of suggestions on how to repair these depending on severity. This is what I settled on.

First I used a plastic welder with metal "staples" along and just beyond the cracks. Then filled in with melted plastic and smoothed out. Made sure to keep the area of stud separation clear of filler. I pressed some JB Weld Plastic Bonder over the repaired area and into the cracks on the outside.
After that it took me quite a while to settle on the method of reattaching the stud. I considered using the superglue and baking soda method, but that dried instantly and would not work well at the point of contact. Maybe I could use it for reinforcement after the stud was reattached.
I did a test and it dried hard as a rock, but seemed somewhat brittle. PVC glue also seemed like an option.

Then I saw how rock hard the Plastic Bonder over the repair areas was and it sanded like hard plastic as well.
So I went with the JB Plastic Bonder. Could not get a clamp to keep it in place, so I had to hold it down with both hands for about five minutes before I could let go.
Now that it is cured, it is quite strong. Just need to remember to pull the side cover straight out when removing and it should last a long time.

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A little messy, but I won't have to look at it.

[jdub6092]

Beginning the paint process, starting with the front fender.
Started with two coats of Spraymax 2K epoxy primer, including the underside.
The Spraymax nozzle provides an excellent adjustable fan pattern, something I've never seen on a rattle can. The only negative thing about it is the can needs to be upright and fairly close to the part to get the best coverage. So the center part of the underside doesn't look great, but don't really care as long as it prevents rust.
However, I am really pleased with how the money side turned out.

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Will let dry overnight and fill in the dings in the morning if sufficiently hardened.

[jdub6092]

Checked the valve tappet clearances again.
All were approximately the same as before with one interesting reading on intake #1.
In position A (cam lobe pointing up) I had the minimum .03 mm gap, but in position B, the gap was 0.10 mm.
None of the other valves had this discrepancy.
Also checked out the cylinder with a boroscope. Looks clean on the exhaust side but carbon is building up on the intake side, notably where the valve indent is located.

[jdub6092]

Not wanting to leave a stone unturned, I went ahead and fabricated a fuel level tool as has been suggested several times. I'd done the basic float height adjustment and measured the fuel volume on a level surface. All carbs were within 2ml of each other.

Took about 1/2 hour to drill through the float bowl drain screw with a carbide drill bit. Then used a 3/16" bit on the screw top to help mechanically seat the brass tubing of the same size.
Attempted to epoxy the tube in twice and failed twice.
Finally got out the torch and plumbing siver solder and soldered the tube to the screw. Then drilled out the excess solder, cleaned it up a bit and voila, another tool.

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Measured the fuel level on #1 both with the bike off and running. In both instances I measured right at 5mm below the gasket surface.

So on to the next check for hot cylinder.

[jdub6092]

The learning continues.. Thanks for the gasket and purpose information.
Took it out for a spin with the new gaskets and while the discoloration hasnt stopped, Its now a very light yellowish purple shade. A similar ride created deep blue/purple splotches previously.
I made sure to get the pipes seated before tightening down the clamp and muffler hanger.

Still appears to have some oil burn off for a couple of minutes after I finish riding. I'll have to figure out where it's coming from. It appears like steam rising from the engine.

[Nessism]

The Suzuki crush washer gaskets are aluminum. Kawasaki type look like the copper ring, crushed down somewhat before use. Worst case, I've used two crush washers before, on stubborn bikes, where I couldn't get the header pipes properly sealed to the head.

[Griffin]

The purpose of the exhaust gaskets is to seal, not transfer heat. They seal the gap between the exhaust and a giant chunk of finned aluminum that is your main heat transfer medium.

Oem exhaust gaskets for the GS series are either aluminum or thin steel, interwound with some type of heat resistive substance. Those are what you have in the pic above and are fine. Some other brands (like Honda) often used rings made of copper tubing. Either work fine.

The key is to get a good tight seal by slightly compressing them when tightening the exhaust nuts on the cylkinder head studs (or bolts into the head, whichever set up you have). The amount of heat transferred by the gaskets themselves is insignificant.

[jdub6092]

Those new gaskets in the pic above look just like the OEM ones I’ve always bought from my Suzuki dealer or online OEM seller. I don’t believe there’s any copper in them. If I had to guess I’d say they’re mostly aluminum. They’re supposed to crush, considerably, and as such are single-use.

Good to know. Looks like I can go for a ride.
I was basing my assumption on the image from Partzilla.

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[Rich82GS750TZ]

Those new gaskets in the pic above look just like the OEM ones I’ve always bought from my Suzuki dealer or online OEM seller. I don’t believe there’s any copper in them. If I had to guess I’d say they’re mostly aluminum. They’re supposed to crush, considerably, and as such are single-use.

[jdub6092]

Decided to take the exhaust off and will change out the gaskets. Noticed all the gaskets had paint on them. Those expanding foam plugs didn't do their job!
Clearly, paint is not a great conductor of heat, but its present on all four and only one pipe was turning blue. Possibly a seating issue?

20250329_094014.jpg I have these Athena gaskets on hand that dont appear to have any copper (better heat transfer) and have ordered a copper set from Caltric that look more like OEM.
Any opinions on whether I should install these or wait for the copper ones to arrive?

I have scrubbed off the remaining paint and wire-wheeled/cleaned the exhaust ports and pipe surfaces, so just trying to decide on whether I want to ride today or wait a week.

[jdub6092]

Getting the header pipes sealed to the head can be a challenge. You need new crush gaskets. Loosen the muffler mounts and make sure nothing is binding. First thing to tighten are the header bolts at the head. Only tighten the mufflers after the headers are seated.

I did reuse the copper crush gaskets that had on for about a week when I decided to go the restoration route. They looked pretty good so I figured I could reuse them. I do have a lesser quality new set on hand.

Makes a lot of sense to tighten at the head before the hanger brackets. That's how I originally did it, but apparently didn't torque down enough at the head.

[Nessism]

Getting the header pipes sealed to the head can be a challenge. You need new crush gaskets. Loosen the muffler mounts and make sure nothing is binding. First thing to tighten are the header bolts at the head. Only tighten the mufflers after the headers are seated.

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Poker or Pinochle? Could just be cam walk? Common and normal. Post a video.