Big mess up on GS1000 engine install. What are my options?

[chuck hahn]

Check the alignment of the shifter pawl in the clutch cover side. 1 tooth off and thats the symptom. Also, with the cover off the clutch, remover the pressure plate and use a ( think its 30MM socket ) and your drill to spin the input shaft. I have a socket adapter thing that fits in my drill with the regular 3/8 drive end that I use. Then I add the 3/8 to 1/2 inch adapter so the socket will attach. ( My socket is a 1/2 inch drive ) so I have to do some adapting. If you have a 1/2 inch chucked drill you can take an old extention and cut it off so it will chuck up and you good.


Start easy so the drill doesnt twist your wrist if its locked up solidly.

Now with the center hub spinning as it would be with the bike running, your replicating actual use and actual shifting scenarios. Often youll find that with the hub spinning it shifts normally when any othr way seems to be jammed. Why you ask?? Because these are not syncronised shifting trannys. The centrifigal force of the input shaft spinning and the motion itself makes the gears slide around easier and thus catch and release normally.

[rustybronco]

There isn't any reason to remove the engine just yet.

Does the clutch disengage when you pull in the clutch lever?

Pull off the points cover and use a wrench to turn the engine while trying to shift it back into neutral, that or remove the clutches and
rotate the rear wheel pulling up on the shift lever.

[Nessism]

With the bike on the center stand you should be able to jostle the rear wheel back and forth while moving the shift lever so see if the shift fork system is working properly. If you can't get the lever to move smoothly through the gears the next step would be to pull the clutch out and watch the selector and detent mechanism to see if there is any binding there. Cracking the cases again would be last resort.

[crackerman]

Thanks for the info guys. I'll try pulling the clutch and see what I can do.

[crackerman]

Pulled the cover to the clutch. So I can turn the 32mm nut, clockwise, and that moved rear wheel backward without a problem but can't turn the nut counter clockwise to make the wheel go forward. The shifter seems to be all the way down, so I'm thinking it's just in 1rst gear. Tried shifting it up to find neutral but can's seem to shift it. Should I pull the clutch plates and clutch assemble out? Still got the bike on the stand.

[JTGS850GL]

Tried shifting it up to find neutral but can's seem to shift it.

Not a good sign. You should be able to go into neutral from 1st pretty easily by simply rocking the rear wheel.

[crackerman]

Yea I just mess around with moving the wheel backwards and shifting. I heard it click in a gear but can't seem to find neutral as it won't go forward.

[rustybronco]

It should turn with the clutch pressure plate removed but as it's only take a few more seconds to remove the steels and frictions, pull them.

Does the shift lever return to it's center position when you operate it? Did you try turning the 32 mm nut back and forth while you moved the shifter?

[chuck hahn]

Take a close up picture of the shifter pawl thats right behind the basket at the lower left side of the well. Like I said earlier..one tooth off and it will jam up because it doesnt allow the ratcheter on the shift drum to reset properly.

[GSX1000E]

This is what it is supposed to look like. Notice that one tooth is on either side when it is installed correctly.

[TeamDar]

I'm a little worried about the the transmission. The gears are like a rubix cube and I figured out how to get the top mated with the the bottom, but I'm not sure the shifting will work right now.

If you didn't get the shift forks back into the receiving grooves in the gears it will not shift correctly. There are three forks that need to be where they belong.

[crackerman]

I got a bad feeling the shift forks didn't got into the correct receiving grooves. I had a hard time getting the 3 to fit correctly. Here's the clutch removed:

[chuck hahn]

There are 5 female notches on the snifter shaft pawl and 5 male teeth on the drum gear. the MIDDLE ( 3rd tooth ) on the drum gear goes into the middle ( 3rd female tooth) on the shifter pawl. If thats correct youve got a gear out of place on the trannyn shafts or the forks arent placed right.

[crackerman]

Split the case again. Triple check everything. I think she's good now. Engine back together. Just got to put her back in the bike.

[crackerman]

Back to square one. Engine installed today. Tested the gears and shifts no problem now. I definitely had screwed up the gearing. I'm going to focus on just getting her running and tuning the carbs. The original airbox will be going back on. I'm going have some questions on the vacuum lines that go to the tank and carbs. Thanks all for the help.

Also I ended up picking up a spare 79 GS1000, mag wheels, that is titled. No tank, carbs, or side panels, but it's got a bunch of good parts on it. Anyone need anything just ask.