GSX400E Project Suzzie.

[Runeight]

Moving forward...

Quite a bit accomplished.

The seat cleaned up nice and is in very good condition.





Removed more body parts for cleaning covering electrical parts.



Then a good cleaning.











The wheels have some imperfections so I'll work on those at a much later date.

A little polish on the tank. To bad the other side is dented.

[Runeight]

The switch check out fine. On to the starter button. If that checks then it's the starter. (Frown)

[SVSooke]

The last few days I have been glued to the computer. Yes, many are the same. Several emails in about the only main issue are the diaphragm's. Very specific. I haven't got to the carburetors yet so I'm hoping they are fine. Very expensive. I'm also working on the O ring set from recommendations given here.

Used a test battery and have everything working as far as headlight, tail and stop, turns and gauges. There is no power to the starter using the starter button so I tested the starter solenoid and don't get a reading. (Ohms) I tested voltage and get 12 +/- from the battery side but nothing out the starter side. Thinking it's done for.

Looking for a used one if anybody has a spare otherwise I'll have to order a new one.

Have lots to update so I'll try and get to that this weekend. Bike cleaned up nice. Going to clean up the electrical then move to carburetors. I would like to get this running before any more parts are ordered.

I my experience the diaphragms are pretty tough.Yes I've heard of them having holes but I haven't seen any myself,of course I might be lucky to.
For a starter solenoid look at the garden tractor ones,less than 1/2 the price and only the eagle eyed can tell the difference.Try a home improvement store.
Edit: Drat my slow 1 finger typing.

[Runeight]

Fortunately the switch is fine. Testing from the button down to the switch next.

With the button depressed there is no reading at the switch on the green/yellow wire. If the starter button checks out I'll pull the starter next checking the brush.

[Runeight]

Ever been told to not read more into it? Exactly. Electrical is sorted. Now, I'm not familiar with pulling in the clutch while in neutral to start a bike however after longer than I want to admit here that was the issue. Inside the switch, inside the headlight, testing here, testing there. Could not get power to the solenoid when pushing the start button.

Turned the motor over this morning. Feels good, nice resistance. Carburetor removal next but man, that air box looks like a challenge.

onward...

[SVSooke]

AHHHHH......that's what the problem was,easy fix.Just plug the wires that go from the clutch switch together in the headlight bucket bypassing the switch.

[John Park]

Ever been told to not read more into it? Exactly. Electrical is sorted. Now, I'm not familiar with pulling in the clutch while in neutral to start a bike however after longer than I want to admit here that was the issue. Inside the switch, inside the headlight, testing here, testing there. Could not get power to the solenoid when pushing the start button.

Turned the motor over this morning. Feels good, nice resistance. Carburetor removal next but man, that air box looks like a challenge.

onward...

It's not. Undo the air box mounts and slide the air box back. Removing the air box will have you wondering if they welded the frame up around it.

You'll be replacing the carb boot o rings. I find that the screws that hold them on usually come off by grabbing the head with a small needle nose type vicegrip and some tapping and wiggling. There isn't enough room to have at them with an impact driver. You really don't want to break these screws off….. I prefer to replace them with allen heads.

The carbs are jetted differently from a US 450. Normally, they have none of the lean surge that plagued that model and required shimming the needles and so on. Mine will start without the choke unless it's cold out and I only use a touch of choke to keep the idle up while it warms. Apart from the jetting, needles and such, the standard floats and gaskets and rubber bits may be the same as US 450.

Which manuals do you have?

[Runeight]

AHHHHH......that's what the problem was,easy fix.Just plug the wires that go from the clutch switch together in the headlight bucket bypassing the switch.

Dont understand why you would have to pull in the clutch while in neutral. Never had a bike like that. Well, it's good now.

[Runeight]

John>

Have a a size and thread pitch for the Allen heads?

I just have a Haynes manual but it's pretty complete. Do the intake tubes on the air box remove? Frame brace right over them. O rings ordered for the boots as well as the carburetors. (orings.com)

I also ordered a engine gasket kit and two aftermarket rebuild kits for the carburetors. Mostly just to have for parts if needed. Aftermarket never quite the same as OEM but would work in a pinch.

Carburetor removal next week time permitting.

Thanks guys..

[John Park]

The bolts are 6mm x 1.0 pitch, 20mm long. The originals have a lock washer, probably for a reason.

The intake tubes are integral to the air box. There are two bolts on the right side holding the toolkit plate and one on the left on a frame tab, then slide aft. The battery is in the way so it has to come out. Nothing to it.

There is a little velocity stack inside the intake tube that feels like it should come out but should probably left alone.

The air filter is a bit odd in that you have to sort of fold the plastic hold down grille over the foam to get it out the top so you can remove and clean the foam element. Just take your time and try not to break it. I think they were more flexible thirty years ago.

[Runeight]

The bolts are 6mm x 1.0 pitch, 20mm long. The originals have a lock washer, probably for a reason.

The intake tubes are integral to the air box. There are two bolts on the right side holding the toolkit plate and one on the left on a frame tab, then slide aft. The battery is in the way so it has to come out. Nothing to it.

There is a little velocity stack inside the intake tube that feels like it should come out but should probably left alone.

The air filter is a bit odd in that you have to sort of fold the plastic hold down grille over the foam to get it out the top so you can remove and clean the foam element. Just take your time and try not to break it. I think they were more flexible thirty years ago.

Got it, thanks.

[Runeight]

Interesting read this morning..

Along with the bike I also received a few receipts. With my first cup of java this is what I found.

Nichols Motors out of Wichita KS.
Invoice dated 02/09/91
Ring set, piston
Clinder gasket
Head gasket
Head cover gasket
Oil seal, valve stem
Gasket, adjuster
Piston pin cir clip
Valve job, complete

No odometer reading. (See below)

Invoice dated 04/20/91. Odometer 9141, probably KM. (Showing 11200 now)

Valve assembly, needle
Fuel cock assembly (yet to test)
Carb clean
Inspection

03/21/01

New shoe set
Tires
Spark plugs
Oil/filter
Battery

This morning I pulled off the float bowls. The left, as seen in past pictures, had fuel down the side. Couldn't drain it like the right side due to the gas. Was expecting the worse but actually things are very clean. Right side also. Cleaned up the bowls as well as the jets but all in all very clean.

It goes without saying that the carburetors will get a rebuild. Just waiting on the parts however I believe this baby will fire right up with some fresh gas. How well it will run is another question.

Waiting on a new filter but I think for now I'll change the oil and give it a go. Let the old filter grab the junk then install the new one.

[Nessism]

Be sure to replace the carb O-rings and those on the carb boots. You gotta pull the carbs apart to do a proper job. Basscliff has a couple different rebuild tutorials, including one focused on the twin carbs. You would do well to keep the original brass parts if at all possible.

[Runeight]

Agreed, always did this, if possible, on my Honda rebuilds. All I want to do now is fire it up before proceeding any further.

Now, I don't want to sound stupid but my manual states 5.4 US pints without filter. I drained a heck of a lot more than that!

Misprint? Shoot me the amount in quarts and I'll pencil it in the book. Thanks!

[John Park]

Agreed, always did this, if possible, on my Honda rebuilds. All I want to do now is fire it up before proceeding any further.

Now, I don't want to sound stupid but my manual states 5.4 US pints without filter. I drained a heck of a lot more than that!

Misprint? Shoot me the amount in quarts and I'll pencil it in the book. Thanks!

2600ml is cast into the block beside the filler cap. From a dead dry condition it will hold 2900ml as I recall. Your oil container should say .943 L [??] on it so 5.4 pints [2.7 qt.] it is.

I suspect that the right intake valves were open when it was parked and the gas went down that hole to the crankcase; the left side dribbled down the float bowl. This happens all too often.

Personally, I have no faith in the later model petcocks. I run the old '77 - 80 style with two diaphragms and the big lever. It has a rational gasket that isolates the bolt holes. It isn't as prone to fuel starvation by design. It cost more to make. It flows enough fuel to feed a four. I have had no reason to curse it. Maybe I'm wrong, but I feel the hand of the accountant - 'find me a way' - in the later models.

If the petcock always completely shut off we'd have a lot fewer carb cleanings and rod bearing failures. Then there are those who figure that if down is on and reserve is forward, then to the rear must be off… sigh. But it's the era of fuel injection now; problem solved.

Rant over.

My guess is that the thing was parked for so long that the rings rusted to the cylinder wall; the valves were done because….they were there and looking at them. Or just took them out and replaced the seals. As long as they didn't grind them down to nothing you're probably just fine. You do have to wonder why it went nowhere for the last twenty odd years though.

BTW, you may want to free the clutch plates before you bang it into gear.