JohnnyL's 1980 GS550L Cafe Build

[JohnnyL]

Damn I hate 12V wiring. I can wire a house all day long. Motorcycle, vehicle....it's like a different language to me. Thank God Brian Wringer is going to help me. I've drawn up a schematic for when Brian and I meet to discuss this mess.

I did decide to purchase a Motogadget M-Unit Blue and a M-Button to simplify this and hopefully cut down on visible wires. The Motogadget will also enable me to customize some things. Pretty amazing system.

[Spyder]

It really does LOOK a lot more complicated than it really is. Starting fresh, and making your own loom is a bit time consuming, but in the end it will look, and function so much better than stock. Plus you will lose about 5 pounds of wire. I would love to do this to mine when I pull it back out of the mothballs.

[JohnnyL]

Picked up the frame and bits from the powder coater today! Let the rebuild begin! Unfortunately the wheels are still being powder coated and won't be done until early next week. They were having a problem with off gassing on the wheels.

[bwringer]

That M-Unit Bluetooth widget is super-duper-slick. I hadn't heard of such wizardry before John sent me a link. I look forward to seeing it firsthand!

With all LED lighting, we'll be able to get away with 18AWG wire almost everywhere. We could easily go smaller, but at a certain point the wire gets a little more fragile and harder to work with.

[steve murdoch]

Powder coating looks great.
I have a CBX frame and bits that need some attention. If you don't mind what did it cost for the parts in the pics.
Feel free to send me a p.m. if you aren't comfortable posting it.

[JohnnyL]

Powder coating looks great.
I have a CBX frame and bits that need some attention. If you don't mind what did it cost for the parts in the pics.
Feel free to send me a p.m. if you aren't comfortable posting it.

It was pricey and I had the best company I know if do it. Indy Powder Coating does a lot of IndyCar stuff. They do a lot of stuff for Dallara Chassis. They mask off all the areas that shouldn't get powder coat. ie. steering stem, all threaded holes, places where a bolt could crack the powder coat etc. I had the wheels and forks done in gloss black and the frame and bits satin black.

Frame=$160
Swing Arm=$40
Triple Tree=$15
9 Small Brackets=$45
Battery Cover=$5
Rear Brake Line Cover=$5
Stabilizer Arm=$5
Kickstand=$5
Center Stand=$10
2 Wheels=$120
2 Fork Legs=$75
Sandblasting=$125

[JohnnyL]

That M-Unit Bluetooth widget is super-duper-slick. I hadn't heard of such wizardry before John sent me a link. I look forward to seeing it firsthand!

With all LED lighting, we'll be able to get away with 18AWG wire almost everywhere. We could easily go smaller, but at a certain point the wire gets a little more fragile and harder to work with.

I am really excited about this M-Unit. One thing I didn't think about was the placement of the ignition key. Since I made a new triple clamp, there is really no where to put it there. I thought about mounting it somewhere hidden on the chassis but with this bluetooth M-Unit, do I even need a key? The bike automatically locks and sets an alarm when I am out of bluetooth range and automatically unlocks and turns on when I am within the vicinity of the bike.

[Rich82GS750TZ]

... with this bluetooth M-Unit, do I even need a key? The bike automatically locks and sets an alarm when I am out of bluetooth range and automatically unlocks and turns on when I am within the vicinity of the bike.

Just food for thought. Sometimes when I install an update on my phone, my bluetooth connection between my phone and car audio system can get flaky. Consider the possibility of coming out to your bike after updating your phone and not being able to "see" the M-Unit. If there isn't a mechanical/electrical physical key, then what? Maybe It's nothing to worry about. But my mind always goes to "what if". BTW, I love this thread. The work you're doing and having done is fantastic. Looking forward to the completed bike.

[JohnnyL]

Just food for thought. Sometimes when I install an update on my phone, my bluetooth connection between my phone and car audio system can get flaky. Consider the possibility of coming out to your bike after updating your phone and not being able to "see" the M-Unit. If there isn't a mechanical/electrical physical key, then what? Maybe It's nothing to worry about. But my mind always goes to "what if". BTW, I love this thread. They work you're doing and having done is fantastic. Looking forward to the completed bike.

I know! I have thought about that. Probably better to have a back-up key system.

[JohnnyL]

HUGE question! When I built my son's 69 CL350 Cafe, I laid the engine on it's side on the floor on blankets and lowered the frame over the engine and then bolted it to the chassis. It was so easy that I did it completely by myself. Do you think it is possible to do that with this GS? This engine is SO heavy! I'm scared to death I am going to scratch the powder coat on the frame or the engine paint trying to lift the engine into the chassis on the bike lift.

[bwringer]

HUGE question! When I built my son's 69 CL350 Cafe, I laid the engine on it's side on the floor on blankets and lowered the frame over the engine and then bolted it to the chassis. It was so easy that I did it completely by myself. Do you think it is possible to do that with this GS? This engine is SO heavy! I'm scared to death I am going to scratch the powder coat on the frame or the engine paint trying to lift the engine into the chassis on the bike lift.

Yep, that's generally the method espoused around here. An old tire with a towel or blanket over it can do a pretty nice job of holding an engine. I haven't done it like this personally, though. I've had the bike held upright on a lift, and brought the engine in from the side.

Another hint is to cover the frame tubes with something. There are plastic covers for shower rods that serve well for this. Foam pipe insulation is a little too thick and gets in the way. Masking tape and other methods of padding and protecting finishes are very helpful.

And of course, get some help.

I've replaced a GS850 engine by myself a couple of times (the heaviest of all GS engines, I think) and several other engines. Can't say I'd recommend flying solo, but it can be done if you're stout of back, clear-minded, and your soul is pure...

Either way, it's basically impossible to do without banging something together, so if the finish matters, you'll need to protect it.

[JohnnyL]

Starting to look like a motorcycle now. I laid the engine on the floor with a bunch of blankets. I then blocked the engine so it was sitting level. By removing the breather plate on the top of the engine, there was plenty of clearance to lower the frame right over the engine. I little blocking around the frame to enable me to line up the engine mounts, and voila! New Stainless engine mount bolts and washers installed. I will torque all the bolts once the bike is sitting upright on the lift.

I'm a pretty impatient guy. LOL. I didn't want to wait for my son to get home from school. However, I am going to need his help lifting this assembly onto the lift. Guess I'm going to HAVE to be patient now till about 3:30.

[ste gs1000]

Looking very nice indeed ����

[chris]

Hi, I don't think you need a ignition switch, you could put a m-lock rfid fob into your m-unit ignition input like I did or just leave it as is. I highly recommend the cable kit because it is metric and color coded. The wire size will be exact for your switches and m-unit. The color coding makes installation like paint by numbers, I did not need to make a wiring diagram. Don't forget to use ferrules on the wire ends. Your bike is looking awesome.

[Rob S.]

...lower the frame right over the engine. I little blocking around the frame to enable me to line up the engine mounts, and voila!

Nice job! Reminds me of the times I single-handedly swapped engines on a Camaro and VW Beetle. Lone wolfs rule!