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    #31
    That will probably work if it is a nice tight fit against the underside of your adapter plate mate, not pretty, (and you can't see it anyway) but functional. I'd trim some more off the OD too, to allow plenty of oil to pass back into the return port on your engine. Cheers, Terry.

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      #32
      You don't have to cover the port so that all the oil runs through the cooler. I have had a cooler on my 850 for several years now. It was made by Lockhart. I got it from Hap. It has an extension that goes part of the way down to the port, but does not cover it completely. This setup is a partial flow. It allows some oil to go to the cooler and some to the engine. I did quite a bit of experimentation when I added the cooler. Since my setup was a partial flow, I was worried about reducing the oil pressure and not having enough oil going to the engine. I fab'ed a series of inserts to place in the line to my cooler and tried each one until I had the correct oil pressure, based upon the factory manual, and still allowed oil to the cooler. When adding a cooler, I would recommend added a pressure guage to the oil gallery plug on the right side of the 8 valve engines.

      Comment


        #33
        You might not "have" to direct all your oil to the cooler, but why would you not want all your oil to be cooled? Are you sure your adapter is complete? Some of the old adapters had a flexible rubber "block" to take up the gap between the adapter and the port.

        Once your cooler is "on line" and you have oil in the lines and radiator, (within a matter of seconds from initial installation) you're not going to be short of oil, so I can't see any benefit in not cooling all your oil?

        If you're somehow trying to regulate the oil temp, you'd be much better off with a thermostatically controlled valve, than what you currently have, in my opinion. Cheers, Terry.

        Comment


          #34
          With the low pressure oiling system used on the roller crank GS engines, I couldn't get the oil pressure light to stay off unless all the oil flow is captured by the extension piece capping the oil galley. In my experience, even a small gap between the pieces allowed oil pressure to bleed off and throw the light at idle.
          Ed

          To measure is to know.

          Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

          Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

          Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

          KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

          Comment


            #35
            Originally posted by Nessism View Post
            With the low pressure oiling system used on the roller crank GS engines, I couldn't get the oil pressure light to stay off unless all the oil flow is captured by the extension piece capping the oil galley. In my experience, even a small gap between the pieces allowed oil pressure to bleed off and throw the light at idle.
            That's it mate, I use a digital vernier to measure mine when I make my coolers, and so far, after 8 years and hundreds made, no complaints. I don't think that putting restrictors in your oil line to fool your oil pressure switch is a real good idea. Cheers, Terry.

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              #36
              The restrictor ensures that enough oil stays in the motor to keep it lubed, while still allowing some oil to flow through the cooler. I am not fooling the oil pressure sensor. It still maintains the correct pressure in the engine. The adapter I have is slightly different than the one you manufacture. It replaces the OEM pressure switch with one similar to those used on older car engines. The switch that came with the adapter plate required too much pressure to keep the oil light off when the motor was idling. I did quite a bit of searching and found a Borg-Warner switch for a BMW car that fit my adapter plate and required only .5 LBs of pressure to keep the light off. This set up has worked well.

              All the parts were there, as this was a kit that Hap had. I even contacted Lockhart about it.

              Now some may think that a partial flow would not be benificial, but I will tell you it has made a significant change in the operating temperatures of the bike. After a ride, you can reach down and feel a major difference in the temperature of the lines going to and from the cooler.
              Last edited by Guest; 07-12-2008, 12:37 PM.

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                #37
                Ah well, not an ideal situation in my opinion mate, but if it works for you, then all the best! Cheers, Terry.

                Comment


                  #38
                  Originally posted by brs127s View Post
                  You don't have to cover the port so that all the oil runs through the cooler. I have had a cooler on my 850 for several years now. It was made by Lockhart. I got it from Hap. It has an extension that goes part of the way down to the port, but does not cover it completely. This setup is a partial flow. It allows some oil to go to the cooler and some to the engine. I did quite a bit of experimentation when I added the cooler.
                  Lockhart didn't design it the way you have described; you are missing the rubber bushing that Terry mentioned which completly seals the extension down to the center oil port. I installed my Lockhart cooler back in 1982. I will send you picture Monday if interested . . . I am sure its working fine though.
                  Steve

                  1979 GS1000E (45 Yrs), 1981 GPz550 (11 Yrs)

                  Comment


                    #39
                    Originally posted by brs127s View Post
                    The switch that came with the adapter plate required too much pressure to keep the oil light off when the motor was idling. I did quite a bit of searching and found a Borg-Warner switch for a BMW car that fit my adapter plate and required only .5 LBs of pressure to keep the light off. This set up has worked well.

                    I'm interested in learning what model and year BMW that pressure switch was used on. If I can come up with a suitable switch like this building an adapter could be done using a simple plate and regular plumbing fittings - no need for a special adapter (no offense Terry).

                    Latest idea is simple plate and plumbing fittings. The seperate brass fitting goes down in the oil port and sends the oil upward - easy to make from a common brass fitting. The pressure switch shown is from Napa - not sure if the pressure threshold is low enough though. Experiments with this sensor were not favorable in the past, but I learned that the adapter was leaking internally (not capturing 100% of the oil flow) so I'm going to try again. A .5 psi switch sounds ideal so please share any info you can.



                    .
                    Last edited by Nessism; 07-13-2008, 10:54 AM.
                    Ed

                    To measure is to know.

                    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                    KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                    Comment


                      #40
                      Boys, I have to back up a bit. My oil cooler and adapter are made by Hayden. I even found the old emails I had from them. I kept thinking it was a Lockhart, but I went out and looked. I already forgot the model, but the cooler has a metalized plastic shroud to direct more air through it. The hoses attach to the side on barbs and just clamp on with hose clamps.

                      As for that pressure switch, I will have to look and see if I still have the info. I just got lucky and was looking through the manufacturer's catalog at the switches and came across it. I either have the receipt stuck in my paper work in a filing cabinet, or I have it written down in my manual. I will post it if I find it.

                      Comment


                        #41
                        Originally posted by terry View Post
                        That's it mate, I use a digital vernier to measure mine when I make my coolers, and so far, after 8 years and hundreds made, no complaints. I don't think that putting restrictors in your oil line to fool your oil pressure switch is a real good idea. Cheers, Terry.
                        Terry, the alu piece that goes down into the well, do i need a rubber oring or something for that, or will that piece with your kit seal it up as it should? If you need i can post a picture of what i am talking about, but im at work at the present.

                        Comment


                          #42
                          Had some good results with my adapter today. Found a plumbing fitting that is very close to the right size to act as the oil pickup (the brass fitting shown in my other photo works also). Modified it to fit down into the engine oil port and feed oil upward. Used the Napa oil pressure sensor and it worked well; oil light stays off even with the oil at running temperature. Anyone with a drill press could easily replicate this adapter quite easily for pretty cheap – drop me a PM if anyone wants more details.







                          Ed

                          To measure is to know.

                          Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                          Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                          Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                          KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                          Comment


                            #43
                            wow you could eat off that engine....

                            Comment


                              #44
                              Originally posted by TheCafeKid View Post
                              Terry, the alu piece that goes down into the well, do i need a rubber oring or something for that, or will that piece with your kit seal it up as it should? If you need i can post a picture of what i am talking about, but im at work at the present.
                              No mate, just use it like it is, no "O" ring required.

                              Comment


                                #45
                                Originally posted by Nessism View Post
                                Had some good results with my adapter today.

                                Well they say that imitation is the sincerest form of flattery mate, so I guess I should be really, really, flattered, ha ha!

                                Just be careful calling it "your" adapter though, it just looks like a (slightly rough) version of MY adapter!

                                Man, I really should have patented that sucker! (except I couldn't, considering that I took some design clues from another "period" adapter manufacturer, he he...........)

                                Just don't ask me for any info on my new spin on oil filter adapters, I'm not telling you anything! Cheers, Terry.

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