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Budget AFR/EGO Setup

  • Thread starter Thread starter Guest
  • Start date Start date
pete said:
Hmmm... thanks guys, you've given me lots more to think about now...


That means wideband sensor and data logging with RPM and TPS, although TPS will be a matter of if I can set it up or not.

So, the LM-1 won't do all that right? And I can only buy a second hand one now as Innovate only sell the LM-2.
Click to expand...

Thoughts? Any other alternatives I'm missing?

Oh, there's new LM-2 firmware available again from Feb this year too, 1.15 I think...
Click to expand...


The LM-1 will work it does all of that.

It records 44 minutes of Lamda + 4 inputs + RPM

That unit I posted ended without a sale but was bid up to $160 so his BIN was very reasonable at $200 considering all the alternatives. I have well over $500 into mine (LM-2/LMA-3,Cables, connections, wheel sensor) for not not that much more.

What I think is very useful is
    1. AFR/Lambda
    2. RPM
    3. SPEED
The rest is good to have seen but isn't really that useful:
  • G's
  • Manifold vacuum
  • Temperature
I used a proximity sensor, and if you had a Frequency to voltage converter you would have two timing signals for your LM-1. You can always add the LMA-3 as I did but I'm not sure if the LM-1 will record the LMA-3 data.

Basically I bought the LM-2 because it was OBD2, SD card and with the LMA-3 anything else was redundant.

The LM-1 is very reliable and for what ever potential capability you are giving up you can rest assured that at least it will work. You can't always say that about the LM-2. Mine works well for what I'm now doing, it is just fussy.
 
Last edited:
posplayr said:
The LM-1 will work it does all of that.

It records 44 minutes of Lamda + 4 inputs + RPM

That unit I posted ended without a sale but was bid up to $160 so his BIN was very reasonable at $200 considering all the alternatives. I have well over $500 into mine (LM-2/LMA-3,Cables, connections, wheel sensor) for not not that much more.



What I think is very useful is
    1. AFR/Lambda
    2. RPM
    3. SPEED
The rest is good to have seen but isn't really that useful:
  • G's
  • Manifold vacuum
  • Temperature
I used a proximity sensor, and if you had a Frequency to voltage converter you would have two timing signals for your LM-1. You can always add the LMA-3 as I did but I'm not sure if the LM-1 will record the LMA-3 data.

Basically I bought the LM-2 because it was OBD2, SD card and with the LMA-3 anything else was redundant.

The LM-1 is very reliable and for what ever potential capability you are giving up you can rest assured that at least it will work. You can't always say that about the LM-2. Mine works well for what I'm now doing, it is just fussy.
Click to expand...

Thanks Jim, I had assumed the LM-1 was nowhere near as feature rich.

I drive my Acewell tach. by connecting it to the negative input to the coil driven by the Dynatech under the ignition/timing cover. Do you happen to know if I should be able to use the same setup for the LM-1? There's a 10K resistor inline to keep the noise out for the Acewell and it makes the tach. very reliable.

TPS is the only other sensor I can see putting on the 450, but I'll have to work something out for that yet.

Budget won't be soon enough to get one just yet, but good to know they're out there.

Also, buying second hand, will the auto calibration tell me if the sensor's buggered?
 
pete said:
Thanks Jim, I had assumed the LM-1 was nowhere near as feature rich.

I drive my Acewell tach. by connecting it to the negative input to the coil driven by the Dynatech under the ignition/timing cover. Do you happen to know if I should be able to use the same setup for the LM-1? There's a 10K resistor inline to keep the noise out for the Acewell and it makes the tach. very reliable.

TPS is the only other sensor I can see putting on the 450, but I'll have to work something out for that yet.

Budget won't be soon enough to get one just yet, but good to know they're out there.

Also, buying second hand, will the auto calibration tell me if the sensor's buggered?
Click to expand...

picture.php


The 5V LPF is a voltage divider to keep the voltage input to be less than 5V and with a capacitor. You can see the small inset picture for the speed sensor. There is a zener to protect against anything above 5V, volatge divider and an a cap. It is similar to what was called out in the LM-2 manual under interfacing.

All the filtering I did was not really nessesary. I was chasing a noise issue down that was related to slow edges on the SPEED input. The edges need to be crisp.
 
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Cheers Jim, that clears that up at least...

Now to bide my time and wait until I can do something...
 
Kept looking and while it's not portable as such, Dynojet have a Wideband Commander that has data logging built in, an RPM pickup that is driven straight from coil negative (no fancy hookups required), and an analog 5v signal input for things like TPS.

$US329 I believe, although my guess is I'll have to buy it from the local distributor who want to charge me about $180 for a stage 3 Dynojet kit for my carbs...

Given Dynojet's reputation, that could definitely be the better option.

They have however done something similar to Innovate... they released the Wideband Commander 2, but removed data logging. You need to buy the optional LCD screen for that which bumps the price well over $400, and in my situation I don't need the LCD screen either. I just want data logging so I can review afterwards...
 
koolaid_kid said:
You can buy an O2 plug anywhere. Make sure of 3 things: It has a socket head on it instead of an allen socket. It must be stainless steel. When you install it, use lots of anti-seize.
Click to expand...
Ok, anyone know what the thread type is?
 
I *think* I have made a decision...

For under $300 I can get a DIY kit that gives me internal logging and an external display with logging buttons etc. from an Aussie company down south.

Ended up having an email conversation with the guy yesterday and his brother has a Cucciolo on the mantle piece! Ha!

Anyway, it seems I'll get more bang for my buck this way.

http://wbo2.com/2y/default.htm

At the default logging rate of 10 samples per second, I should get half an hour out of the onboard memory. The Dynojet Wideband commander only gives you about 10 minutes in comparison.

Roll on the end of the month!
 
Pete, did you ever get the kit from WBo2? I ran across their site whilst looking for compatible Bosch LSU 4.9 O2's for a possible upcoming project of mine.
 
Unfortunately not Dale. I had a very good email conversation with them to cover off that it would be a good fit for what I was doing, but then got sidetracked with something else which meant the budget got spent elsewhere unfortunately.

With the current plans for this year it's still not going to happen, but hopefully once I achieve my goal of a Katana sitting alongside the 450 I can revisit and get my hands on one.
 
PIC or AVR

PIC or AVR

Hi all!

I am planning to make a DIY AFR meter with data logging from a budget. It will use an Arduino microcontroller, and a wide band O2 sensor.
My plan is to weld an O2 bung in the pipe wich run between the 2nd and 3rd exhaust pipe. This way the sensor is close to the headers, and hided from the eye as much as possible. The Arduino can convert the voltage from the sensor very easy to AFR or Lambda. Very easy to do SD card managing, so data logging should be a pice of cake. Two main concern is power supply for the Arduino, and RPM counting. As far as RPM counting, I think the easiest way is to count the pulses from the ignitor unit, wich is 12V, with a heavy Zener diod we can convert that to 5V, wich the Arduino can withstand. Counting the time between 2 pulse=RPM! Now, we have lambda or AFR and rpm counting, and all of this is stored in the SD card! The power supply wich I have to think more, but not a big concern. If wanted, with Arduino we can display the AFR or lambda in a basic LED display, too. We can log the outside temperature and the engine temperature, too. Price goes like this: O2 sensor+Arduino+some wiring and electronic components. That is about 100 dollar for the set!
I began the work in the next month, I will keep you informed! Any suggestion and help is welcome!
 
I would suggest you either put a bung on each pipe or barring that, put one bung downstream of all the cylinders, not between cylinders 2 and 3 and don't forget to mount the O2 as close to the topside of the pipe as not to get contaminated from water.
 
Hmmm... thank you for the suggestion, I have to think this out again. I don't want to put more than 1 O2 sensor in the system, thats why I think I put them to this point, here it can measure 2 cylinders data, not just 1. And can be hiden from the eye. It is a wrong place for sure in the consideration of water, but I can't think off better place for now.




exhaust_zps8e12c960.jpg
 
If you are just doing AFR testing, make up a probe that can be inserted into each muffler when needed.
 
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