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Refreshing the head

duaneage said:
Hold your finger over the valve guide hold and pull the valve out about 1/2 inch and let go. A good valve guide will pull the valve back in with vacuum, bad ones don't.

Good tip ...Thanks :lol:
 
Hi Jethro,

If the bike has such low milage, the seals will have hardened but the guides should be still OK. With the compression holding up well and being so even across all cylinders your rings also sound OK - as do your valves themselves.

Smoking a little on startup is sometimes caused by standing the bike on the sidestand instead of the centrestand. When tilted like that the oil around exhaust valve #1 can't flow down into the sump, but stays in the well around the valve seal. When you start the motor a little is sucked down the stem.

If you are burning oil when running it could be the hardened seals letting you down, or there might be some crankcase pressure helping it past the rings. Check that the crankcase vent between the valve cover and the airbox is clear.

If you decide to replace the seals you will be up for, at the very least, the seals (get the real Suzuki bits and not cheap replacements) and a head gasket (not cheap but these days multi-layer metal instead of asbestos sandwich type) and a valve cover gasket (they tear easily when removed) and new crush washers for the headers.

Then there is the time to get it done (save it up for winter). You can do it without taking the motor out of the frame - thank you Mr Suzuki, many bikes can't do this.

The valves can be put back in the same positions without cutting fresh seats. If there is a buildup of carbon under the exhaust valves (sometimes happens) you need to clean it up. Then the valve seat should be done and new shims will be needed. Suzuki specifically says not to lap these valves with paste - make your own choice here.

This is a lot of work/money for the sake of some smoke on startup and oil use when running. An alternative is to add some oil stuff to stop the smoke, the oil usage is hard to avoid if the seals have hardened. Having someone drive behind you to check smoke while running under different conditions can tell you a bit of what the engine is doing as well.

Most of all, enjoy the ride while the weather lasts. The northern hemisphere has ways of keeping bike riders indoors.

Kim
 
Get a head gasket, and valve seals, and a valve spring compressor. If you're just doing the seals it will take you a weekend to do, assuming you don't find anything funky. If you have a bunch of clean up to do it will take a bit longer, all depends on how far you want to go.
 
I got the same spring compressor from Sears as you have, Luke. Modified with a small piece of pipe like you suggested and it works great. I messed around with the head from my 81 last night. That head has over 20k miles on it and it seems fine. I'm just gonna do the clearances and ride the sucker. Next year I'll rip it apart.
 
Jethro said:
After some fiddleing with the head off my 81, and taking out a few of the valves, I'm gonna settle for a simple valve clearance adjustment this year on the 83. The bike has killer compression, runs great and only has 16000 on the motor. Why mess with it.

The weather better break soon so I can ride, or I'm gonna get stupid with the tools !

Rock on Jethro! After reading what Keith said and realizing the reality of that being right and the state of the engines compression you described I was hoping this is what you would do.

They get dirty, if it isn't complaining, ride it! :)
 
It was me that started the cold start smoke thread and I think im going to just ride the bike for a while and see what happens because it just seems to be going so well it seems a waste of time pulling it apart and like its been said earlier it might not stop at just seals once you start working on the engine :D
Ride it and see what happens :wink:
Trev
 
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