1985 Suzuki GS700EF

[tejasmud]

Well.

Aside from the GS1150 rim conversion, soon to come.

I did happen the put these silly carbs back together. They have been sitting in zip-lok baggies under the desk for, what, 4-5 months.

Here is a pic of the progress.

And, I got them back together, I think.

I did have a bunch of parts left over (in the baggies) after rebuild, and pretty sure I know where they go. Didn't see any reason to put the parts back in though. :-k

But, it should run okay I think. :lol:

Might be better with 29s, but we shall see.

 

[jwhelan65]

Looking good Eric, are you swaping out the front end or just fitting the front wheel of the 1150? I know the rear is wider, is it a matter of spacing to get it to fit?

 

[tejasmud]

Looking good Eric, are you swaping out the front end or just fitting the front wheel of the 1150? I know the rear is wider, is it a matter of spacing to get it to fit?

Well Joe,

Yes, I aquired a front 1150 wheel from Ed.

Measurements of both front wheels show it is not a direct bolt up, disc/rotor spacing as well as bearing width is different. Some of this has been covered. For the most part, if I were to look at the details..........

I would say cost wise/bolt up, swapping the front end would be best.

I'll revive his thread on the subject of '1150 wheel to a 700/750' to clarify the thoughts, why's/why not's with detail.

The direction I'll take will make it work, in a radical way with the 700 front end ,but again easiest would be the 1150 front end, I believe.

The rear, have yet to get a wheel. Most of the research I have done says it will just bolt up. Maybe some spacers are involved. Not sure yet. On the agenda though.

Eric

 

[Mindless]

Really nice work there. Love the idea with the heatshrink on the zipties.

 

[tejasmud]

Thanks, Mindless, I have been reading your thread as you progress, quiet impressive.



It is update time again.

Figure it is about time to post on the latest and greatest things I have been working on since the last update. Little bit here and there, but the bike is coming together nicely.

Well, I left off on the 85’ GS1150 wheel swap. I have already converted the rear over to the 3.5” wheel of the 1150, and it is pretty much a direct bolt up except the need to run the GS700 bearings. They will press right in, and the only difference is the inside diameter, which is smaller.

Right Side showing the wheel with the pipe mocked up.

Left Side.

Gap at the chain guard and brake torque arm are pretty tight. This is with a 130 rear tire. The swing arm on both sides has plenty of room. If the torque arm were bent a tad, and the chain guard either removed or slightly modified I figure it could go wider on the tire.

Chain guard side.

The front 1150 wheel, well still going to be done, I just have not had access to a big lathe here lately.

I have been trying to convince them that the 1150 front wheel is more important than the $500k of work they are doing for the paying customer, but it is not working too well. lol




I suppose next would be the Vance and Hines chrome 4 into 1 megaphone as seen in the picture above. On this I decided to change over to the “racing baffle,” which was purchased form Dennis Kirk.

Here is a picture that shows the difference in length and size of the center outlet hole.

And a picture of hole diameter inside the pipe. I’m sure it will be plenty loud…lol

Next is the O2 sensor bung that was welded into the collector on the header. This will be plugged into the Innovate LM1 data logger to measure air/fuel ratio. I still need to touch it up with some high heat VHT silver paint to keep if from rusting..

 

[tejasmud]

Now, back over to the left side of the bike. I went ahead and replaced the seals at the clutch rod, and counter shaft. The clutch rod seal pops pretty easily, but the countershaft one takes a little more work, but does come out without splitting cases.

Picture of the removed seals, and o-ring on the counter shaft.

On the chain, it is a RK RX-Ring, size 530, and rivet type master link. The rear sprocket as mentioned in a previous post is a 47t from PMP Sprockets, 2 teeth up from the stock configuration.

The front counter sprocket is a 13t, which is one tooth down from the stock configuration.

Ray, you were correct. The 12t was going to rub the guide a bit. So that was scrapped on the project for now.

New nut and washer of course.

 

[tejasmud]

Next, I suppose is the brake system. New masters as mentioned before, but the calipers I pulled off this bike were in pretty rough shape. Lots of pits were found behind the main piston seals of both front and rear. So, watched the bay for used calipers, and purchased one front and one rear for $5 then found another two fronts with new pads for $49. The pads alone run $20 each side, so figured it was not a bad deal for the set.

These were dirty outside, and brown goop oozed out from the inside, but they were free from pits in the caliper bodies.

Here are a few pictures of the calipers after bead blasting and polishing the piston bores.

Inside the piston bore view.

Here is a picture of the capers after paint with Dupli-Color satin engine paint.

And, to complement these beautiful bodies…………….

New OEM components.

Then we venture back to the front master cylinder, 06-07 GSXR1000, and the mounting of the fluid reservoir. This is the custom clamp I made for the reservoir, which the split ring was purchased from McMaster Carr 7/8” ID.

This mounts right to the clip-ons, and puts the reservoir down and to the right a little, cap facing up, and out of the way of the instrument cluster. I had cut off the tabs used for the Gixer to clean it up a bit as well.

Picture of the front view .

And back a bit for a better view of both bars..

 

[tejasmud]

Pressing forward.

Earlier in the project there are pictures of the bike with VM33s. I still have them, may get around to mounting them one day on this bike just to see play with them.

But, there has been a change in the project plans with the timely acquisition of some VM29 smoothbores, from member Chuckhahn. Thanks Chuck.


They needed some cleaning, so I placed them under my pillow for a month and…..

Waaaaa-Laaaaa!!!

Nice n’ purdy.

Like y’all believe that..


Same as I always do, break them down, dip, polish if necessary, order a few o-rings, gaskets, fuel needles and seats, and other items I might like to change like fasteners.

This time I decided to try something new and zinc plate the hardware.

Eastwood Tin Zinc Kit, around $75, but I have already used it on many other parts as well. It will pay for itself, and is really simple.

Then it was to the assembly table, aka breakfast nook table, and assemble.

After all this was done,




THEY DON’T FIT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



Arrrrggggg………………………..LOL!


As is, no they will not just bolt up.


I checked a little to see if there were some intake flanges that would work, called and asked Ray, called Sudco, searched a while on the net, called a few more people, but to no Dice.

So, I made some adaptors.

Problem #1 was the spigots on the VM29s measure 34mm OD. The BS32s measured around 39mm, if I recall correctly.

The #1 and #4 carburetors lined up straight, which this was pretty simple machining.

But, the #2 and #3 were off by about 3.5mm on the centerlines between the #1 and #4.

Maybe these are not for a Suzuki, not sure of the spacing on the older heads.

So, I made some offset adaptors to remedy this problem.

The inside of the adaptor port was blended to make a smooth transition with the least amount of change to the flow path.

Now, probably wondering.

These adaptors are going to “LEAK LIKE A SIEVE !!!!”

Well, that was also taken in to consideration.

I bought some Viton o-rings from McMaster. Mil Spec V-75 -027.

Back-cut the adaptors on the inside to contain 2 o-rings per adaptor. O-ring compression is about 28%.

Why 2 o-rings?

Because I already had the parts in the lathe, indicated in, and the tool in the holder.

Make 2 grooves.

One as a back-up if the other tries to leak, but I doubt either will.

Lub them puppies up like so……

Then “Lickity-Pow!!!!” we have something like this.

Unaltered VM29 with adaptors.

The adaptors are “keyed” so #1 fits #1 only then #2, #3, and #4.

 

[tejasmud]

They slip right on with a little bit of a push. Here just mocked up without the clamps.

Oh, another issue that was the clearance between the throttle cable bracket, it now sits off ?? or so from the head. Before it was an issue.

 

[tejasmud]

Next on the agenda.

Pulled the top-end off Sunday.

Why?

When I turned the engine over after it had sat for 8 years I did hear and feel some surface rust inside the cylinders, but it did turn over.

Also, the #3 cylinder left side exhaust valve had about 1mm of gap between the adjuster and valve.

?Italian Tune Up? yea, yea, yea??????



Well, No, no, no, no, no??...

At this point, it just ain?t happening. Not when for around $250 to $300 to do it right. Hone, re-ring, valve seals, and gaskets.

Piece of mind as well.

Now, for the pictures, and description of what I found.

Valve cover off, cams out, no problem.

Then cylinder head off, view of #4 piston. Not too bad, carbon coated, and expected.

Then, #1 piston, and same for the most part. #2 and #3 not shown, but same.

So, now the cylinders are off, which they looked okay. Ring of carbon at the top, a little bit of rust stain where the pistons had stopped and sat for 8 years. No pitting though.

These were solvent washed, and honed with #240 grit, silicon carbide, flex hone??..

From EngineHones.com

Pulled the pistons off and put them in the Chem-dip for an overnight stay to clean off the carbon. .

On the pistons, both rings on #4, and the top ring on #3 were stuck.

After the dip, 1.5 days they look like this.

And,

Rings are still stuck.

While they were soaking, I scrubbed on the combustion chambers of the head some, and pulled the valves and seals.

A little bit more scrubbing needed on the head with a toothbrush and cleaner to get the carbon out, then it will be ?lap? the valves, clean up the compound ?really well!!!!,? and put the valves back in.

Well, dat be all fer now.

Back to work.

Eric

 

[jwhelan65]

Holy crap Eric! You have been busy! Build is first class! How do I talk you out of one of those front master clip-on mounts?

You are creating a 700 shop manual with pictures!

This is totally awesome!

 

[tejasmud]

Holy crap Eric! You have been busy! Build is first class! How do I talk you out of one of those front master clip-on mounts?

You are creating a 700 shop manual with pictures!

This is totally awesome!

Thanks Joe.



It has been a slow process, over a year, but this "BEBE" is going to run this summer.

 

[tejasmud]

Some work over the last few days. :|

Head has been cleaned of carbon.

The machined areas where the valve seats are pressed into the head were cleaned up, both intake and exhaust ports.

Just conservative blending/clean up work.

Intake ports look pretty much like this, just knocked off the edge. The sanded area is all that was done.

Exhaust was done the same way, but I did run a scotchbrite wheel through the port and the polished it to keep the carbon down.

Down into the port from the valve seat.

Slightly back cut the original OEM intake valves. 37?

Didn't touch the exhaust valves.

The valves were first lapped in, which is the wider ring so I did leave a little bit.

See how this does, it is only a 700, so not much effort put into it.

I am just learning by what I have read here on the site.

Conservative is safe I think.

 

[tejasmud]

Here are some more pictures of the progress. Completed the top end this weekend.

Pistons were cleaned and polished up after the rings were removed. I soaked the pistons for one more day to try and free up the stuck rings, but they still would not budge. I tapped on them with the screwdriver handle, and they eventually popped open.

New rings and clips for the pistons.

Here are the pistons installed on the rods before the cylinder was put on. On the o-rings that go on the center 4 (rear) studs I didn't get these in the Gasket Kit I purchased off the bay, so I substituted -111 viton o-rings. I was not sure of the original o-ring material, (Buna?), but by looking at them they appeared like they had melted/flowed a little bit. The viton has a much higher temp rating so they should work with no problem..

The cylinder installed. Cylinders dry and rings dry. Worked the #2 and #3 in first, then moved on to #1 and #4. In gear works good to keep #2 and #3 pistons higher than #1 and #4.

Head installed, cams in, just after checking to make sure all was lined up, and before torque down of the cam caps and oil tubes. I just put the ignition trigger wheel on the (T) mark, set the exhaust cam, then counted 20 pins on the cam chain, and lined up the intake cam. Then installed the tensioner, released the tensioner, turned the crank by hand 2 revolutions to absorb the slack, and verified things were where they needed to be.

Piston pins, rocker arm pins, and valves received a thin coat of Torco MPZ Assembly Lube. Cams were lubed with Torco MPZ Cam Lube. Break in oil to be used is Torco TBO 40w.

 

[tejasmud]

So after the top end rebuild I rolled it out to get a few overall pictures with the pipe, VM29s, and K&Ns installed

Two pics of the left Side.

Front View

Right Side

I still don't know about these Napoleon mirrors. May look for some smaller round bar end mirrors. :-k

 

[jwhelan65]

Just flat out bad ass Eric!... Whats the plans on the body work?

 

[tejasmud]

Just flat out bad ass Eric!... Whats the plans on the body work?

Thanks Joe.

That will be coming up here in a month or so. I purchased a set of Devilbiss HVLP starter guns, the one full size and one touch-up gun kit. Need to buy the other supplies. Going with the Pearl white base, but switching to the red graphics. Will order those from Reproduction soon as well.

 

[tejasmud]

Wifey is about to work on the seat. She does good baseball stitch, so the pics are just abstract, shoot, give her a Sargent seat cover and she would duplicate it.

Here are some ideas or thoughts.........

Maybe buy a few seats and be able to change them out at will.


So, this is pretty much the stock Blue GS700E bike,

It will change to the Red, maybe do one seat as stock.

Now for the change up, sort of Kat/Corbin look with a not so deep pocket.

Then a similar concept with a deep pocket.

I'm all for "Tiger Print," maybe "Leopard Print," but wifey say no.

Thinking the Kat look, but not so deep pocket.


Oh, the Kat look would have the "ribbed" section near the tail of the seat as well. Possibly.


E

 

[jwhelan65]

The Kat/Corbin would look awesome, but I don't think you can go wrong with either...cant wait to see this come to life.

 

[doug g]

Great googly moogly that thing is sweet!!!!!!!!!!!!