Best Bang for the Buck?

[Guest]

Bike is an '82 GS1100E. Has pods and a Kerker 4-1 exhaust, stock carbs jetted for the pods, stock cams degreed to the stock lobe centers of 110I/109E. Runs very well, but it is still a 100hp bike that weighs well over 500lb.

If I wanted more power what are the best value options based on:

1) without opening the engine up
2) with a teardown

I suppose how much power is a significant portion of the question... Say getting upwards of 125-130rwhp. I am not looking for a torque monster, would prefer the power be added through the midrange and into the top end.

Thanks,
Mark

 

[78550GS]

With the proper suspension setup and maybe some weight reduction, it should feel like a more powerful bike. Also with the proper suspension, it will be much safer.

 

[Guest]

With the proper suspension setup and maybe some weight reduction, it should feel like a more powerful bike. Also with the proper suspension, it will be much safer.

I have Ikon shocks and a modified stock fork at the moment. I am thinking of having a cartridge conversion done on the fork this winter so that will be as good as it can get. I am also waiting on parts to do salty_monk's twin pot brake upgrade. I want to keep the stock look so am keeping the stock forks and wheels rather than changing to newer components and 17" wheels.

After the stock pipes and intake went there isn't really much more I can do for weight loss unless I am missing something.


Mark

 

[storm 64]

A turbocharger would up the horsepower significantly...

 

[Guest]

A turbocharger would up the horsepower significantly...

True, and it probably is a great value for the performance gain. I guess I should have specified naturally aspirated...

The question really comes down to flatslide carbs, cams or a big bore kit I think. Which of those offers the best value for increased performance?


Mark

 

[GS1150Pilot]

You said, "Without opening the engine up," so cams seem out. RS36 carbs are a great next step, as are cams, but you'll need some head work to capitalize on the potential.

 

[Griffin]

Bike is an '82 GS1100E. Has pods and a Kerker 4-1 exhaust, stock carbs jetted for the pods, stock cams degreed to the stock lobe centers of 110I/109E. Runs very well, but it is still a 100hp bike that weighs well over 500lb.

If I wanted more power what are the best value options based on:

1) without opening the engine up
2) with a teardown

I suppose how much power is a significant portion of the question... Say getting upwards of 125-130rwhp. I am not looking for a torque monster, would prefer the power be added through the midrange and into the top end.

Thanks,
Mark

Buy a late model Bandit.

 

[GS1150Pilot]

From what I have learned as I amass parts for the 1229 build, if you want 130 rwhp, you will have to open the motor up to do head work, cams, and then get and dial in RS36 carbs.

 

[blowerbike]

careful of the your small taper crank....
lobe centers should be around 106/108.
my advice....like i gave other members...
buy an 1150 engine/drop in webs/36rs carbs and have it tuned by me or someone who has done the same exact setup.
my stock 1150 engines made around 130 without ever removing the head.
i did several and they all ran the same.
no internet BS here...i spent every day of many years(pre internet experts) working with what i had or saving customers $$$$ and my stuff ran better than the kitted bikes done by big name shops(in my area).
there you have it

 

[Guest]

You said, "Without opening the engine up," so cams seem out. RS36 carbs are a great next step, as are cams, but you'll need some head work to capitalize on the potential.

Sorry, I should have said without pulling the head/block and/or splitting the cases. Changing cams is not that much work and is OK for my purposes.

Buy a late model Bandit.

Yeah, but it isn't a GS1100E. Nice bike, but not what I want...

lobe centers should be around 106/108.

That will move the torque peak to lower rpm will it not?

my advice....like i gave other members...
buy an 1150 engine/drop in webs/36rs carbs and have it tuned by me or someone who has done the same exact setup.

If I were to come across the engine for the right price that would be reasonable. What do I get with the carbs and cams in my engine?


Mark

 

[blowerbike]

1150 is a bigger CC of course and 1mm larger intake valves.
i have never done an 1100 with the same mods.
the cam like to be IMO smaller intake # and larger exh. # with a 1-2-3 spread between them.
i'm just throwing out #'s i have used before but i like 107/109 the best.
with those #'s my 1150 went faster(1/4 mile) going to a 16t front sprocket.
big mid-range and would make power to 10,500 before hitting the rev limiter.

and to offset the 1150 engine price subtract 500-600 for your old engine.
makes for a really good swap and a big upgrade for little money.

 

[Guest]

the cam like to be IMO smaller intake # and larger exh. # with a 1-2-3 spread between them.
i'm just throwing out #'s i have used before but i like 107/109 the best.
with those #'s my 1150 went faster(1/4 mile) going to a 16t front sprocket.
big mid-range and would make power to 10,500 before hitting the rev limiter.

I have not heard that the intake lobe center should be smaller than the exhaust. What do you think about all the guys that recommend 108/108 for lobe centers?

I used the numbers I pulled from the shop manual when I did it (it was 9 years ago so my memory is a bit fuzzy on the fine points). It isn't that much work to tinker with it on a rainy afternoon, maybe I will try moving to 107/109 and see how that runs compared to now.

and to offset the 1150 engine price subtract 500-600 for your old engine.
makes for a really good swap and a big upgrade for little money.

Fair point, I hadn't thought of selling the original engine. Something to think about if I come across an 1150 mill. Which cams do you recommend for the 1150?


Mark

 

[blowerbike]

106/106
108/108
seems to up the cranking pressure a little err maybe/maybe not but i have used the above number with good results also.
on stock cams i'd stay around 105/107 106/108.
here's what i used..
1150 stock engine.
.340 web cams@107/109 lc.
RS36 miks needle in the middle 130-135 mains 115-117.5 pilots 1/2 turn max out on mixture.
HD clutch basket of course.

with this swap you also pick up a welded crank and a large taper crank and SC set up plus the 1150 engines are just to cool looking

 

[Rob S.]

After the stock pipes and intake went there isn't really much more I can do for weight loss unless I am missing something.


Mark

Ditch the center stand.

 

[blowerbike]

remove the right front rotor and install it on the rear(thinner/lighter).
same goes for all the right front brake parts you no longer need.
rotating mass add's up fast and it is noticeable when removed.
now here comes the guys asking if i'm retarded....lol
nope just squeeze a little harder on the front brake....you'll be ok

 

[Guest]

Ditch the center stand.

It never came to me with one, just the side stand.

remove the right front rotor and install it on the rear(thinner/lighter).

I am going to lose some front end weight with salty_monk's twin pot brake upgrade, but I didn't know the front rotors were lighter than the rear. While I have it all apart being painted I will look at swapping that rotor to the back.


Mark

 

[Guest]

Buy a late model Bandit.

Agree or a 01-05 FZ1.

Don't want to sound like Dr. Doom but.......
Those two options are the "best bang" for your buck. The FZ1s are selling for $3K down to $2K in excellent condition. 120 hp at rear wheel, modern suspension, radials, modern electronics/charging, great ergonomics, reliability and excellent two up sport tourer capability on the cheap.

When you buy a running working bike you know a lot more about condition than picking up used engines. You could easily spend tons of money and time, get the hot rod all buttoned up and find out you missed something and you have to go in again. Ask me how I know.

Not saying get rid of your good running 1100e just saying there are other options and you won't recover any of the extra time, money or effort you put into your bike, you'll likely de-value it. On the down side there are problems with owning multiple bikes, space limitations and insurance/reg being two of them.

Hot rodding 80s super bikes is fun, can be a passion, can be rewarding but is seldom a "good bang" for your buck when measuring total performance at the end of your funding outlay.

As I get older my personal time becomes more and more valuable. I like to spend my free time riding. Don't mind wrenching and maintenance, but my ultimate goal is miles in the saddle.

Whats your time worth?

What's a season of down time worth to you while your searching parts and building?

If you want to really get depressed calculate how many weekends and vacation days you have left before your 75 years old. Now eliminate all the time off where you had to do something you didn't want to do or it rained or it was snowing. Your "good life" is just about over.......... I can't believe I just wasted 10 minutes writing this all down. Where's my helmet........

 

[GS1150Pilot]

FZ1 is a nice bike (had an '03 for seven years) but has little character. Rather than keep suggesting he get a different bike, we should answer his questions.

 

[Guest]

Not saying get rid of your good running 1100e just saying there are other options and you won't recover any of the extra time, money or effort you put into your bike, you'll likely de-value it. On the down side there are problems with owning multiple bikes, space limitations and insurance/reg being two of them.

All fair points, but not an issue in this case. I have 4 bikes in my garage at the moment, insurance is relatively cheap and I don't plan to ever sell the 1100E, so value one way or the other isn't something I am worried about.

Hot rodding 80s super bikes is fun, can be a passion, can be rewarding but is seldom a "good bang" for your buck when measuring total performance at the end of your funding outlay.

As I get older my personal time becomes more and more valuable. I like to spend my free time riding. Don't mind wrenching and maintenance, but my ultimate goal is miles in the saddle.

Whats your time worth?

What's a season of down time worth to you while your searching parts and building?

I live in Canada so I have months of good wrenching time every winter. I agree that time is always short but I like tinkering on old bikes and find working on them almost as much fun as riding them. If I want to go ride I start my GSXR1000 and go for a ride. If this was my only bike then I agree with you 100%, but it is a toy that isn't my only transportation.

If you want to really get depressed calculate how many weekends and vacation days you have left before your 75 years old. Now eliminate all the time off where you had to do something you didn't want to do or it rained or it was snowing. Your "good life" is just about over.......... I can't believe I just wasted 10 minutes writing this all down. Where's my helmet........

I know exactly what you are talking about, I find that I get about 2-3 good free weekends every summer at most. Truly free time is an extremely rare commodity these days. Have a good ride.


Mark

 

[CivilRock]

Mark,
I had the same exact bike, with V&H street pipe and dreams of adding power.

I read/posted 10,000 questions here and came to the conclusion that in order to add power to the 82 1100, you first have to spend about $1500 preparing the engine to add the power. The unwelded crank can twist, and the clutch basket can fail.

After looking over all my options, I decided to wait around for an 1150 motor to show. I started looking in September 2013 and found one February 2014. I got it for $700 and sold my 1100 for $600. The seller didn't know the history as it was in a box that came from a collection of a guy that lost a battle to cancer. They did know it had 6,600 miles and had good compression, but it had been sitting for years 5-6? and had no oil in it. What I'm trying to say it that it was a gamble, and $700 is low. If someone knows what they have, a good proven running engine should be in the $1500 range.

Even at $1500, it's a better deal than building up the 1100. And you get your 124hp just by bolting in the engine.

I literally did the engine swap in one day. With the money I saved, I then bought RS38s and a Dyna 2000 ignition.

Now I have more HP, and a great platform to add power. 1230cc, cams, and porting are down the road with the goal of about 155 HP in the end.

-Kevin