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whittjayw
Guest
1978 GS750 has been sitting for two years while restoring frame up. What is the best oil to use, as I have not seen bike run.
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GateKeeper
Guest
try this stuff
new picture of the right kind....
new picture of the right kind....
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I just use regular conventional Valvoline 10W40..just like the cap says.
Whatever you choose, just READ the label and specifications ring thing and be cvertain you dont see anything like "friction modifiers" or anything else that would suggest friction additives. these additives can make the ckutches slip and that not a good thing.
Whatever you choose, just READ the label and specifications ring thing and be cvertain you dont see anything like "friction modifiers" or anything else that would suggest friction additives. these additives can make the ckutches slip and that not a good thing.
Steve
GS Whisperer
Fortunately, those oils seem to be 10w-30 and thinner.
Not saying they don't exist, but I have not (yet) seen an "energy conserving" 10w-40.
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I still look at the labels...force of habit i guess after all these years. Not that its abad habit to get onto!!! The day i take something for granted will be the day i funk it up.
Steve
GS Whisperer
Oh, I look at the labels every once in a while, too, just to see if they have started doing it.
No matter, though, the bikes get 5w-40 Rotella synthetic, the cars get 10w-30 Mobil1, so I only get two types of oil.
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try this stuff
Rotella is great oil, but at least use the 15W-40 or the 5W-40 synthetic stuff.
Yes, this. The proper 15W-40 looks just like that white jug. Don't use 10W-30 in a motorcycle.
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GateKeeper
Guest
It was just a picture from the internet...
I have to see what I have sitting on my shelf, I don't remember what viscosity I purchased...
what is wrong with 10w-30 ?
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10W-30 is too thin. The 15W-40 or 5W-40 varieties are better for air cooled motorcycles.
Caution against using automotive oil, regardless of it not being "energy conserving" or what have you. Get diesel engine or motorcycle oil, since it has more high pressure additives than car oil.
Caution against using automotive oil, regardless of it not being "energy conserving" or what have you. Get diesel engine or motorcycle oil, since it has more high pressure additives than car oil.
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GateKeeper
Guest
Thanks....
Fortunately we don't get the extreme high temps some of you guys in the South get (weather wise), but if my current jug of oil is wrong, I will make sure to get the right viscosity for the next one I purchase...
Cheers
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Fortunately we don't get the extreme high temps some of you guys in the South get (weather wise), but if my current jug of oil is wrong, I will make sure to get the right viscosity for the next one I purchase...
Cheers
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If your local temperature ranges permit using it, in my opinion, there is nothing wrong with using a 'non energy conserving' HD diesel 10w30 oil.
G
GateKeeper
Guest
I am in the great white north......LOL
we don't get really high temps, well some of the days we do, but nothing drastic, and then I get into the car and blast the AC anyways.....LOL
take this month for instance we are for the most part 15 degrees lower than what we should be, go figure....
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we don't get really high temps, well some of the days we do, but nothing drastic, and then I get into the car and blast the AC anyways.....LOL
take this month for instance we are for the most part 15 degrees lower than what we should be, go figure....
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Steve
GS Whisperer
Take a look at the back of that jug for the API 'donut'. It gives information about the viscosity and grade of the oil, and might include the words "Energy Conserving" in it. If it does, I would not wait to make your purchase, get that oil out of your bike NOW!!.
The "Energy Conserving" oil has friction modifiers to make it more slippery. That is great in a car, but your bike uses that same oil in the clutch, and the friction modifiers will reduce the ability of the clutch to grab and transmit power. Yes, it will start sliding. If you leave it in there long enough, it will be totally saturated in the friction material and the only solution will be a total clutch replacement, which will run a bit over $100.
This is what you DON'T want to see:
This is more like what you DO want to see:
Notice the blank area at the bottom that does NOT say "Energy Conserving"?
Here is one of the recommended oils:
Here is another, if you prefer synthetic:
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G
GateKeeper
Guest
Thanks Steve....
I have not used the oil as of yet, it's sitting in my garage on the shelf, and it's been a while since I looked at it and purchased it, that I don't remember what it actually is and says, but I will definitely make sure it is correct
worse case, it will go into the lawnmower, or snowblower, or the wife's car....LOL
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I have not used the oil as of yet, it's sitting in my garage on the shelf, and it's been a while since I looked at it and purchased it, that I don't remember what it actually is and says, but I will definitely make sure it is correct
worse case, it will go into the lawnmower, or snowblower, or the wife's car....LOL
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G
GateKeeper
Guest
AAAAHHHHHAAAAAAAA
they have this one on sale this week.......
$20.79 - $34.39
Reg $25.99 - $42.99
Ea
Shell Rotella Diesel Oil
Time to go and get some.......
It's even the one Steve has put a picture of, so now I know it's the good one....LOL
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they have this one on sale this week.......
$20.79 - $34.39
Reg $25.99 - $42.99
Ea
Shell Rotella Diesel Oil
Time to go and get some.......
It's even the one Steve has put a picture of, so now I know it's the good one....LOL
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I don't believe an oil thread this long got started by a guy's first post.
B
Bookmon
Guest
I do recall Steve teaching me to stick with one brand, don't change brands due to what's on sale. That is when sludge starts to build because their addatives don't play well together.
My oil? big jug of cheap walmart.
My oil? big jug of cheap walmart.
