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Dave_17954
Guest
I've never had a clutch slippage issue using my Rotella Synthetic diesel oil. My 30 yr old Suzi has never run better.
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K
koolaid_kid
Guest
Wow. A HIDDEN oil thread. Glad I missed it until now; I can see all the drama that unfolded, including some (apparently) deleted posts. Hehe, GSR can be so entertaining.
BTW, I use recycled automotive oil in mine, 5W-10. Seemed to run O.K. for several miles and then the engine just stopped. Must have been my charging system. Wait, its not a GS, so it couldn't be that.
BTW, I use recycled automotive oil in mine, 5W-10. Seemed to run O.K. for several miles and then the engine just stopped. Must have been my charging system. Wait, its not a GS, so it couldn't be that.
K
koolaid_kid
Guest
Ya'll must have scared him off. He still only has one post.
K
koolaid_kid
Guest
Checking around the internet and it seems that Mystic sauce has about 1300 ppm zinc and 1150 phosphorus. Good numbers. I'd run that stuff without concern.
K
koolaid_kid
Guest
There is a tractor supply in IL, MI and one other state that carries it for $24 for the 2 gallon jug. In IN it is TSC, and they want $30.
Allie
Forum Sage
I think he got his answer and is probably out riding instead of getting butt hurt in an oil thread
.They do sell new ones, you know.
I know, and they are cheap and easy, and give a great excuse to upgrade to allen screws. I will get to it, but it's barely and issue (if I'm charging hard in 1st as it gets up to 7 grand.... not often), and I LOVE to procrastinate.
Steve
GS Whisperer
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koolaid_kid
Guest
I was waiting for that.
Steve
GS Whisperer
K
koolaid_kid
Guest
Yes, but did you catch the double entendre?Happy to oblige.
.
B
barnbiketom
Guest
I use Rotella beause it smells SOOOO
GOOOOD
GOOOOD
I use what BassCliff recommended here: http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/images/oilchange.pdf
Can't remember the brand but I will look for Rotella from now on.
Ed
Can't remember the brand but I will look for Rotella from now on.
Ed
Plus the boat likes it. 3.0L Mercruiser. I have Rotella in it now and its stinky at idle. I think the Mystic runs cleaner.
S
SNOWBLIND78
Guest
The classic motor oil debate. Gotta love it! Gearheads across the world will probably still be arguing about this topic when were all zipping around in our flying Jetson's pods that run on space algae :saturn:
I have always used conventional dino oil in all my cars and trucks and had pretty good success with it although I am pretty methodical about oil change/filter intervals which we know makes a huge difference on engine longevity, performance no matter what the quality or type of oil in question is.
Since I just got my GS less then ten days ago and the previous owner didn't have any thing to report in terms of maintenance (he said he rode it once and then it sat besides the occasional blue moon when he would start it up in the garage, anyways you get the jist of it.) I wanted to start fresh with a new oil change. The bike runs great but when I drained it the oil was pretty nasty, didn't show signs of being burnt but was just very dirty. I figured why not try an experiment and do the first oil change with synthetic. My thinking was that due to the structure of a more modern synthetic oil maybe it would help to wipe out whatever gunk might have built up in the motor and also synthetics are known for their lubricating qualities which seemed like a good bet for an old motor that had been collecting dust.
I used 2.5 qrts. of Mobil 1 Racing 4t 10-W40 (Also at this time installed a new K & N filter, KN-133) The bottle specifically states it is made to comply with wet clutch bikes and it also meets and exceeds a whole litany of the sae standards.
After test riding the bike I found the results pretty interesting, if not slightly concerning.
I let the bike warm up in the driveway with the choke on for a couple mins then turned off the choke and rode away. When I pulled out into the street from my house and revved up It was very difficult to upshift into 2nd, I had to exert a lot more force than usually and it went into gear with sort of a harsh clicking noise that didn't sound very normal. The next five minutes as I rode around I ranged in speed from about 20 -50 Mph. The shifting felt a little clunky which had not been the case on the other 5 occasions I had rode the bike since purchase. But after another couple minutes I noticed the shifting become blatantly more smooth almost effortless and the engine was revving nicely and seemed to have a more cohesive power band. So hopefully any crappy shifting will not rear its head again.
My theory is that the initial shifting was compromised because the oil hadn't had a chance yet to move around and truly saturate all the parts of the transmission and clutch. Has anyone experienced something similar directly after an oil change?
The bike seems to be performing very well now but I may still switch to conventional or even try the Shell Rotella Diesel.
I have always used conventional dino oil in all my cars and trucks and had pretty good success with it although I am pretty methodical about oil change/filter intervals which we know makes a huge difference on engine longevity, performance no matter what the quality or type of oil in question is.
Since I just got my GS less then ten days ago and the previous owner didn't have any thing to report in terms of maintenance (he said he rode it once and then it sat besides the occasional blue moon when he would start it up in the garage, anyways you get the jist of it.) I wanted to start fresh with a new oil change. The bike runs great but when I drained it the oil was pretty nasty, didn't show signs of being burnt but was just very dirty. I figured why not try an experiment and do the first oil change with synthetic. My thinking was that due to the structure of a more modern synthetic oil maybe it would help to wipe out whatever gunk might have built up in the motor and also synthetics are known for their lubricating qualities which seemed like a good bet for an old motor that had been collecting dust.
I used 2.5 qrts. of Mobil 1 Racing 4t 10-W40 (Also at this time installed a new K & N filter, KN-133) The bottle specifically states it is made to comply with wet clutch bikes and it also meets and exceeds a whole litany of the sae standards.
After test riding the bike I found the results pretty interesting, if not slightly concerning.
I let the bike warm up in the driveway with the choke on for a couple mins then turned off the choke and rode away. When I pulled out into the street from my house and revved up It was very difficult to upshift into 2nd, I had to exert a lot more force than usually and it went into gear with sort of a harsh clicking noise that didn't sound very normal. The next five minutes as I rode around I ranged in speed from about 20 -50 Mph. The shifting felt a little clunky which had not been the case on the other 5 occasions I had rode the bike since purchase. But after another couple minutes I noticed the shifting become blatantly more smooth almost effortless and the engine was revving nicely and seemed to have a more cohesive power band. So hopefully any crappy shifting will not rear its head again.
My theory is that the initial shifting was compromised because the oil hadn't had a chance yet to move around and truly saturate all the parts of the transmission and clutch. Has anyone experienced something similar directly after an oil change?
The bike seems to be performing very well now but I may still switch to conventional or even try the Shell Rotella Diesel.
S
SNOWBLIND78
Guest
This is what the packaging looks like. It was $10.00 a quart 
at O'Reilys Auto Parts but I got my bike on CL via a pretty good deal (Trade for a Honda CRF150) and have never bought premium oil like this except redline gear oil for my truck so I thought why not give it a shot.
Your old oil was full of sludge and sediment. What you have done is flushed the crud and a lot of it is probably living in your filter. If I see nasty stuff coming out I drop the sump plate, there will be a layer of sediment stuck to it, most important , clean the suction tube mesh filter, get cheap oil and run it for a few hours, drain and refill until I'm happy most of it has shifted.
With short change intervals on these old motors I don't think fully synthetic has a significant advantage over semi-syn or dino.
http://www.vfrworld.com/tex_vfr/tech/oil.htm
A bit out of date but a lot of sense - well at least it matches my prejudices
With short change intervals on these old motors I don't think fully synthetic has a significant advantage over semi-syn or dino.
http://www.vfrworld.com/tex_vfr/tech/oil.htm
A bit out of date but a lot of sense - well at least it matches my prejudices
G
Guest
Guest
Vintage oil for vintage machines. Somewhat like a fine bottle of aged port or scotch....
Came in cost saving gallons too! I think this one was like $0.39 when new!
Came in cost saving gallons too! I think this one was like $0.39 when new!
