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THE_FATTIE
And progress was brought to a screeching stop just now... I was attempting to dismantle my carbs and they wont come apart. The bowls came off all of them and the needle valves, but none of the brass parts with the filter that the needle valves fit in seem to want to move. I got the top off one, but the rest have the japanese phillips and they are all too stripped to turn, and to stuck to get pliers to move. I got all of the chokes off. And the brass piece under the rubber stopper, 3 came out with little difficulty, but one is starting to break everytime I try to turn it. And now Im finding some black tar looking substance as well as white and green wax like stuff all over then insides. If I would have just dipped them for 24 hours the first time I have a feeling I would not be doing this right now. If I can get them all apart where can I get a set of the alan head screws for my carbs? Ill need 16 for the top, 16 for the bottom and 16 for the two gang bars that hold them all together. Is that all?
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Got a dremel?? cut slots in them and use a flat tip. take a hammer and kinda gently smack the screwdriver as you try to loosen the bolts. An impact driver will work as well. A few persuasion taps usually break them loose. Any local hardware should have a selection. I have taken the rack right into Ace to get the right ones before.Last edited by chuck hahn; 03-11-2012, 12:05 AM.MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550
NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.
I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.
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THE_FATTIE
I do have a dremel... Not sure why I did not think about that... I guess Im getting a bit tired and wore out... Maybe its the gas fumes.... Thanks chuck hahn
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THE_FATTIE
Almost pure success! Any tips for getting the brass parts out? The thing that holds in the needle valve in. At least I think I know what Im talking about....
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I just take a pair of pliers and gently grip and rotate until it pops up. But be very gentle so you don't bust the posts.Cowboy Up or Quit. - Run Free Lou and Rest in Peace
1981 GS550T - My First
1981 GS550L - My Eldest Daughter's - Now Sold
2007 GSF1250SA Bandit - My touring bike
Sit tall in the saddle Hold your head up high
Keep your eyes fixed where the trail meets the sky and live like you ain't afraid to die
and don't be scared, just enjoy your ride - Chris Ledoux, "The Ride"
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THE_FATTIE
They are pretty stuck... I have 1 that is destroyed already. The brass ripped as I twisted... They are pretty stuck in there....
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Propane torch to heat the solidified orings and soften them up..then gently grip and twist. See the for sale section and see if Cafe kid has some new float seats for you.MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550
NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.
I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.
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Already gave Josh as heads up on possible new float seats for you..just sayin..MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550
NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.
I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.
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Youll notice theres a screen on the backs of the float needle seats..be sure they are there for one and clean as well They are an intigrated part of the seat but i have taken carbs apart and some scientist had cut them off. Thats a NO NO.MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550
NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.
I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.
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One other thing that may speed up the dip time..still gonna need a 24 session..but if theres as much gunk as you say, then use a toothbrush and some gas or laquer thinner ( whatever ) to kinda prescrub as much as you can before putting them in the dip. Will speed up what the dip has to deal with and keep the dip cleaner for reuse longer.MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550
NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.
I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.
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TheCafeKid
Don't mean to argue with you chuck, but I'm gonna sorta..
I wouldn't be concerned about the screens or lack thereof on the inlet seats. Different models had different screens, and ways they went in or on. I just tore apart a set of 650 carbs today, stock, well, I'll assume stock as the mix plugs had never been removed, that had screens that just sat in the bottom of the inlet. They weren't attached to the seat. I've also opened up carbs that have no screens. And when I rebuild my carbs, I don't use the screens. My logic? Anything large enough for the screens to catch is just going to clog the screens, eventually you'll have to tear the carbs down to clean them out. Anything small enough to actually pass through the float seat is either going to cause a problem or it's not. You have, or should have, a perfectly fine screen in your petcock/tank. If its small enough to get by that, well, you're screwed either way cause those screens are about the same size. Most of the screens I've seen snap on over the inlet seat, and are made of plastic of some sort and half end up snapping when being removed. Like I said, I don't use em, and it's never been a problem the screen would have helped. Gas isn't as dirty as it was in the 70s either. So if you don't have em, don't freak out. It's not a big deal.
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THE_FATTIE
I had to break all of them to get them out...
And to me they dont look that dirty... But the one on the far right has some white/green crust on it... The only thing I can think is that there was water in the carb and then it dried up and left this stuff behind... Its very dry and powder like...
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TheCafeKid
It's usually not what you can see, it's what you can't see in all of those small passages inside the bodies. They get crusty easy, and those are what most of the pilot/off idle circuit runs through. The jets and seats are brass, could have been some water in the fuel, or some of the additives in gasoline. Brass corrodes green...
Like i said, don't be freaked out over the screens, they're a nice added "filter" but IMO and experience not entirely necessary.
What you want to pay attention to however is even the seats that you didn't have to rip up to get out, that the inside of the seat didn't get scored horribly. The float needles need to be able to move smoothly and if they're nicked up badly, they may hang up in the seat bore. If theyre not terrible you may be able to clean em up with a jewelers file, but for all that work, I have many replacements if you need...
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No arguements here..I figure they put them there for a reason..but i see your points as well. Just be 150% sure those carb boies are cleann like Josh says.MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550
NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.
I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.
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THE_FATTIE
So I had josh rebuild my carbs and they turned out great! I put them on along with the new petcock, and within 30 seconds of cranking the bike started!
It idled around 4000 rpm until I loosened the throttle cable (dumb me)... After that I let it Idle a bit and then decided to take it for a test drive. I noticed that it seemed to have a lack of power. It seemed like it wanted to go but it just could not do it... after going about 3 blocks I pulled back into the driveway and noticed that the engine was covered in oil After looking a bit I noticed that it was coming from the breather hose on top of the intake. The hose had popped loose and it was dripping oil very slowly... So my question is where do I go from here? What do I check and how do I get my bike to the next level of being ready to ride all the time? I also noticed that my headlight and the lights in the gauges were not working, I know the headlight at least used to work, not sure about the tach and speedo light tho... The headlight fuse seemed fine, what do I check next?
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