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Recommended R/R?

  • Thread starter Thread starter smarzinski
  • Start date Start date
So where am I supposed to ground? The battery? The frame? I have it ground to the negative battery post right now.

We had a contest a while back; the price was an Duanage Honda R/R. The question was were does all the charging current in the system return to? The answer was the R/R(-); that is why the single point ground is at the R/R mounting bolt.


Not to the frame, not to the battery, electricty moves in "circuits", so the current that comes out of the R/R (+) has to return to the R/R (-). No where else.

The simplified schematic you saw provided the analysis to select the best grounding point specifically to eliminate any ground loops. If you study it you should be able to tell.

RustyBronco won. Baltzor came in a close second. Even though he came in after Rusty's answer, Baltzor's answer was technically superior but beyond the scope of the contest.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=157589&highlight=r%2Fr+current+return
 
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There is a ground running from the battery to the back of the tranny. Should there also be one to the chassis?
 
There is a ground running from the battery to the back of the tranny. Should there also be one to the chassis?
It wouldn't be a bad idea. With the motor mounts being painted you may not get a good ground to the frame just through them.
 
It wouldn't be a bad idea. With the motor mounts being painted you may not get a good ground to the frame just through them.


Billy,
I just posted a couple drawing showing the difference between how the current flows depending on how the grounds are constructed.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=175078

This may be close to a wash if all contacts between the battery(-) and R/R(-) are kept clean but as we have come to expect things fall into dis repair. Putting a bigger wire between the battery and R/R doesn't really help the situation when it is connections and crimps that get dirty.

Jim
 
What's an R/R? :-\\\

It's a sign that lets you know there's a railroad crossing ahead.

railroad%20crossing%20sign.jpg



Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Billy,
I just posted a couple drawing showing the difference between how the current flows depending on how the grounds are constructed.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=175078

This may be close to a wash if all contacts between the battery(-) and R/R(-) are kept clean but as we have come to expect things fall into dis repair. Putting a bigger wire between the battery and R/R doesn't really help the situation when it is connections and crimps that get dirty.

Jim
I posted up your single point ground diagram figuring it would be the easiest and most effective. Like you say though if all the grounds are clean, ie removing paint under the ground to the frame and cleaning up the areas where the other grounds attach he should be golden. Using some Ox-Gard paste under the grounds would be good too.
 
I posted up your single point ground diagram figuring it would be the easiest and most effective. Like you say though if all the grounds are clean, ie removing paint under the ground to the frame and cleaning up the areas where the other grounds attach he should be golden. Using some Ox-Gard paste under the grounds would be good too.

Billy,
Yes I saw that. Thanks, im just never sure how clear some of my postings are.
I'm sure people wonder what is the difference in (I think the OP started down that path as well) just running a wire from from the R/R(-) to the battery when there is this big ground strap from battery to engine case; what is to be gained by adding yet another ground from R/R(-) to the frame?
So at the risk of being overly repetitive, the simple answer is that in this R/R(-) single point configuration, the only currents traveling between the battery and the R/R (to and back) are the currents used to charge the battery; there is no other current sharing.This lessens charging system sensitivity to connection resistance
Jim
 
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